LG LRFD25850ST User Guide - Page 32

Understanding, Sounds, May Hear - freezer fan replacement

Page 32 highlights

UNDERSTANDING SOUNDS YOU MAY HEAR Your new refrigerator may make sounds that your old one didn't make. Because the sounds are new to you, you might be concerned about them. Most of the new sounds are normal. Hard surfaces, like the floor, walls and cabinets, can make the sounds seem louder than they actually are. The following describes the kinds of sounds and what may be making them. Check if... • The defrost timer will click when the automatic defrost cycle begins and ends. The thermostat control (or refrigerator control, depending on the model) will also click when cycling on and off. • Rattling noises may come from the flow of refrigerant, the water line, or items stored on top of the refrigerator. • Your refrigerator is designed to run more efficiently to keep your food items at the desired temperature. The high efficiency compressor may cause your new refrigerator to run longer than your old one, and you may hear a pulsating or high-pitched sound. You may hear the evaporator fan motor circulating the air through the refrigerator and freezer compartments. • As each cycle ends, you may hear a gurgling sound due to the refrigerant flowing in your refrigerator. Contraction and expansion of the inside walls may cause a popping noise. • Water dripping on the defrost heater during a defrost cycle may cause a sizzling sound. You may hear air being forced over the condenser by the condenser fan. You may hear water running into the drain pan during the defrost cycle. Then... REFRIGERATOR DOES NOT OPERATE The power supply cord is unplugged. A household fuse has blown or circuit breaker tripped. The refrigerator control is set to the OFF position. Refrigerator is in the defrost cycle. VIBRATION OR The refrigerator is not resting solidly on the RATTLING NOISE floor. LIGHTS DO NOT WORK The power supply cord is unplugged. Light bulb is loose in the socket. Light bulb has burned out. 32 • Firmly plug the cord into a live outlet with proper voltage. • Replace the fuse or reset the circuit breaker. • Refer to the Setting the Controls section on page 15. • Wait about 30 minutes for defrost cycle to end. • Floor is weak or uneven or leveling legs need adjusting. See Installation section on page 8. • Firmly plug the cord into a live outlet with proper voltage. • Turn the refrigerator control to the OFF position and unplug the refrigerator. Gently remove the bulb and reinsert. Then plug in refrigerator and reset the refrigerator control. • Replace with an appliance bulb of the same wattage, sizeand shape available at your local hardware store. (See the Changing the Light Bulb(s) section on pages 25-26.) Turn the temperature control to the OFF position and unplug the refrigerator prior to replacement.

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UNDERSTANDING
SOUNDS
YOU
MAY HEAR
Your new refrigerator
may make sounds that your old one
didn't make.
Because the sounds are new to you, you
might be concerned
about them. Most of the new sounds
are normal. Hard surfaces,
like the floor, walls and
cabinets,
can make the sounds seem louder than they
actually are. The following
describes
the kinds of sounds
and what may be making them.
The defrost timer
will
click
when
the automatic
defrost
cycle begins and ends. The thermostat
control (or
refrigerator
control, depending
on the model) will also
click when cycling
on and off.
• Rattling noises may come from the flow of refrigerant, the
water line, or items stored on top of the refrigerator.
• Your refrigerator
is designed
to run more efficiently
to keep your food items at the desired temperature.
The high efficiency
compressor
may cause your new
refrigerator
to run longer than your old one, and
you may hear a pulsating
or high-pitched
sound.
You may hear the evaporator
fan motor circulating
the air
through the refrigerator
and freezer
compartments.
• As each cycle ends, you may hear a gurgling
sound due
to the refrigerant flowing
in your refrigerator.
Contraction
and expansion
of the inside walls may cause
a popping noise.
• Water dripping
on the defrost heater during a defrost
cycle may cause a sizzling
sound.
You may hear air being forced over the condenser
by the
condenser
fan.
You may hear water running into the drain pan during the
defrost cycle.
Check if...
Then...
REFRIGERATOR
DOES
NOT
OPERATE
VIBRATION
OR
RATTLING
NOISE
LIGHTS
DO NOT
WORK
The power supply cord is unplugged.
A household
fuse has blown or circuit
breaker
tripped.
The refrigerator
control is set to the OFF
position.
Refrigerator
is in the defrost cycle.
Firmly plug the cord into a live outlet with
proper voltage.
Replace the fuse or reset the circuit
breaker.
Refer to the Setting
the
Controls
section
on page 15.
Wait about 30 minutes for defrost cycle to
end.
The refrigerator
is not resting solidly on the
floor.
Floor is weak or uneven or leveling legs
need adjusting.
See Installation
section on page 8.
The power supply cord is unplugged.
Light bulb is loose in the socket.
Light bulb has burned out.
Firmly plug the cord into a live outlet with
proper voltage.
Turn the refrigerator
control to the OFF
position and unplug the refrigerator.
Gently
remove the bulb and reinsert. Then plug in
refrigerator
and reset the refrigerator
control.
Replace with an appliance
bulb of the same
wattage,
sizeand
shape available
at your
local hardware
store. (See the Changing
the Light
Bulb(s)
section on pages 25-26.)
Turn the temperature
control
to the OFF
position and unplug the refrigerator
prior to
replacement.
32