Dewalt DWS715 Instruction Manual - Page 10

English move the fence to allow clearance). Once the desired bevel angle has been set, tighten the bevel clamp knob firmly. Bevel angles can be set up to 48° left and can be cut with the miter arm set between zero and 50° right or left. At some extreme angles, the left side fence might have to be removed. To remove the left fence, unscrew the fence locking knob 14 several turns and slide the fence out. Quality of cut The smoothness of any cut depends on a number of variables. Things like material being cut, blade type, blade sharpness and rate of cut all contribute to the quality of the cut. When smoothest cuts are desired for molding and other precision work, a sharp (60 tooth carbide) blade and a slower, even cutting rate will produce the desired results. Ensure that material does not creep while cutting, clamp it securely in place. Always let the blade come to a full stop before raising arm. If small fibers of wood still split out at the rear of the workpiece, stick a piece of masking tape on the wood where the cut will be made. Saw through the tape and carefully remove tape when finished. For varied cutting applications, refer to the list of recommended saw blades for your saw and select the one that best fits your needs. Refer to Saw Blades under Accessories. Clamping the Workpiece (Fig. A) WARNING: To reduce the risk of serious personal injury, turn off the tool and disconnect it from the power source before attempting to move it, change accessories or make any adjustments. WARNING: A workpiece that is clamped, balanced and secure before a cut may become unbalanced after a cut is completed. An unbalanced load may tip the saw or anything the saw is attached to, such as a table or workbench. When making a cut that may become unbalanced, properly support the workpiece and ensure the saw is firmly bolted to a stable surface. Personal injury may occur. WARNING: The clamp foot must remain clamped above the base of the saw whenever the clamp is used. Always clamp the workpiece to the base of the saw-not to any other part of the work area. Ensure the clamp foot is not clamped on the edge of the base of the saw. CAUTION: Always use a work clamp to maintain control and reduce the risk of workpiece damage and personal injury. If you cannot secure the workpiece on the table and against the fence by hand, (irregular shape, etc.) or your hand would be less than 4" (100 mm) from the blade, a clamp or other fixture must be used. For best results use the clamp 21 provided with your saw. Additional DW7090 clamps can be purchased at your local retailer or DeWALT service center. Other aids such as spring clamps, bar clamps or C-clamps may be appropriate for certain sizes and shapes of material. Use care in selecting and placing these clamps. Take time to make a dry run before making the cut. The sliding fence 10 will slide from side to side to aid in clamping To Install Clamp (Fig. A) 1. Insert the clamp 21 into one of the four locations 15 on the base. 2. Lifting up on the arm of the clamp can rapidly adjust the height, then use the fine adjust knob to firmly clamp the workpiece. NOTE: Place the clamp on the opposite side of the base when beveling. ALWAYS MAKE DRY RUNS (UNPOWERED) BEFORE FINISH CUTS TO CHECK THE PATH OF THE BLADE. ENSURE THE CLAMP DOES NOT INTERFERE WITH THE ACTION OF THE SAW OR GUARDS. WARNING: A workpiece that is clamped, balanced and secure before a cut may become unbalanced after a cut is completed. An unbalanced load may tip the saw or anything the saw is attached to, such as a table or workbench. When making a cut that may become unbalanced, properly support the workpiece and ensure the saw is firmly bolted to a stable surface. WARNING: The clamp foot must remain clamped above the base of the saw whenever the clamp is used. Always clamp the workpiece to the base of the saw-not to any other part of the work area. Ensure the clamp foot is not clamped on the edge of the base of the saw. Support for Long Pieces WARNING: To reduce the risk of serious personal injury, turn off the tool and disconnect it from the power source before attempting to move it, change accessories or make any adjustments. ALWAYS SUPPORT LONG PIECES. Never use another person as a substitute for a table extension; as additional support for a workpiece that is longer or wider than the basic miter saw table or to help feed, support or pull the workpiece. For best results, use the DWX723, DWX724, DWX725B or DWX726 miter saw stand to extend the table width of your saw. These are available from your dealer at extra cost. Support long workpieces using any convenient means such as sawhorses or similar devices to keep the ends from dropping. Cutting Picture Frames, Shadow Boxes and Other Four-Sided Projects (Fig. P) To best understand how to make the items listed here, we suggest that you try a few simple projects using scrap wood until you develop a "FEEL" for your saw. Your saw is the perfect tool for mitering corners like the one shown in Figure P. Sketch A in Figure P shows a joint made by using the bevel adjustment to bevel the edges of the two boards at 45° each to produce a 90° miter corner. For this joint the miter arm was locked in the zero position and the bevel adjustment was locked at 45°. The wood was positioned with the broad flat side against the table and the narrow edge against the fence. The cut could also be made by mitering right and left with the broad surface against the fence. Cutting Trim Molding and Other Frames (Fig. P) Sketch B in Figure P shows a joint made by setting the miter arm at 45° to miter the two boards to form a 90° corner. To make this type of joint, set the bevel adjustment to zero and the miter arm to 45°. Once again, position the wood with the broad flat side on the table and the narrow edge against the fence. The two sketches in Figure P are for four sided objects only. As the number of sides changes, so do the miter and bevel angles. The chart below gives the proper angles for a variety of shapes. The chart assumes that all sides are of equal length. For a shape that is not shown in the chart, use the following formula. 180° divided by the number of sides equals the miter or bevel angle. No. Sides 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 EXAMPLES Angle Miter or Bevel 45° 36° 30° 25.7° 22.5° 20° 18° Fig. P A B Cutting Compound Miters (Fig. Q, R) A compound miter is a cut made using a miter angle and a bevel angle at the same time. This is the type of cut used to make frames or boxes with slanting sides like the one shown in Figure Q. NOTE: If the cutting angle varies from cut to cut, check that the bevel clamp knob and the miter lock knob are securely tightened. These knobs must be tightened after making any changes in bevel or miter. The chart (Table 1) will assist you in selecting the proper bevel and miter settings for common compound miter cuts. To use the chart, select the desired angle "A" (Figure R) of your project and locate that angle on the appropriate arc in the chart. From that point follow the chart straight down to find the correct bevel angle and straight across to find the correct miter angle. Set your saw to the prescribed angles and make a few trial cuts. Practice fitting the cut pieces together until you develop a feel for this procedure and feel comfortable with it. EXAMPLE: To make a 4 sided box with 26° exterior angles (Angle A, Figure R), use the upper right arc. Find 26° on the arc scale. Follow the horizontal intersecting line to either side to get miter angle setting on saw (42°). Likewise, follow the vertical intersecting line to the top or bottom to get the bevel angle setting on the saw (18°). Always try cuts on a few scrap pieces of wood to verify settings on saw. Fig. Q Fig. R Angle A When Mitering to the Right To increase the miter angle when mitering to the right, move the arm to align the appropriate vernier mark with the closest mark on the miter scale to the right. To decrease the miter angle when mitering to the right, move the arm to align the appropriate vernier mark with the closest mark on the miter scale to the left. When Mitering to the Left To increase the miter angle when mitering to the left, move the arm to align the appropriate vernier mark with the closest mark on the miter scale to the left. To decrease the miter angle when mitering to the left, move the arm to align the appropriate vernier mark with the closest mark on the miter scale to the right. 8