Hayward Universal CrystaLogic Pool & Spa Lights Universal ColorLogic and Cryst - Page 1

Hayward Universal CrystaLogic Pool & Spa Lights Manual

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Replacing 12 volt pool or spa lights with Universal ColorLogicTM or CrystaLogicTM Before you begin Use this Guide ONLY if your current light is a low voltage (12v) type. Refer to other Guide if your light is 120v. Pre-Installation Checklist Existing pool or spa light operates on 12 volts You have a pool transformer capable of supplying 70 watts at 12-14 volts Light fixture housing (Niche) has been installed per the National Electrical Code (NEC) Your niche is compatible with the new light (refer to compatibility table in manual) If replacing a SwimQuip® light, the tab on the Universal ColorLogicTM/CrystaLogicTM light may need to be removed (refer to manual) You have wire cutters or shears for cutting the existing light cord You have duct tape for taping the new cord to the old cord when pulling through conduit You have a Phillips head screwdriver You are qualified to work on electrical wiring and understand electric code requirements and wiring methods Installation Preparation Read the entire Universal ColorLogic/CrystaLogic manual Read this entire Guide Remove power to the existing pool or spa light at the service panel! STEP 1: Find Junction Box or Connection Point for existing light If no junction box: If there is no junction box in place, the connection to the existing light is likely made directly to the transformer. Locate where this connection is made. The Universal ColorLogic/CrystaLogic will be wired in the same manner. If there is a junction box: Remove the cover of the junction box and determine how the existing light is wired to the low voltage power supply. The Universal ColorLogic/CrystaLogic will wire in the same manner. Locate existing light's transformer and configure it to output 14 volts, if possible. Refer to your transformer's manual for this information. The Universal ColorLogic/CrystaLogic light can operate on 12 or 13 volts depending on the length of the wire run from the transformer to the light. Refer to table for this information. STEP 2: Disconnect and Remove Light Disconnect the existing light at the junction box or at the transformer. Remove the light from the niche. Firmly pull on the light cord at the junction box and verify that the cord moves freely. There may be a grommet or sealant at the light cord's point of entry into the niche. Removing this should allow the cord to pull freely through the conduit. Leave cord in place until Step 6. STEP 3: Cut Light Cord Place the light on the pool deck and cut the light cord as shown below. STEP 4: Tape Cord ends Keep the Universal ColorLogic/ CrystaLogic light on the pool deck Dry the cord ends thoroughly and tape them as shown. Using too much tape may prevent the cord from moving freely through conduit. Turn Over

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STEP 2:
Disconnect and Remove Light
STEP 1:
Find Junction Box or Connection Point for existing light
STEP 3:
Cut Light Cord
STEP 4:
Tape Cord ends
Keep the Universal ColorLogic/
CrystaLogic light on the pool
as shown. Using
too much tape
may prevent the
cord from mov-
ing freely through
conduit.
Before you begin
deck
Dry the cord ends
thoroughly and tape them
Replacing 12 volt pool or spa lights
with
Universal ColorLogic
TM
or CrystaLogic
TM
If there is a junction box:
Remove the cover
of the junction box and determine how the
existing light is wired to the low voltage power
supply.
The Universal ColorLogic/CrystaLogic
will wire in the same manner.
Locate existing light’s transformer and config
-
ure it to output 14 volts, if possible.
Refer to
your transformer’s manual for this information.
The Universal ColorLogic/CrystaLogic light
can operate on 12 or 13 volts depending on
the length of the wire run from the transformer
to the light.
Refer to table for this information.
Turn Over
If no junction box:
If there is no junction box in place, the connection to the existing
light is likely made directly to the transformer.
Locate where this connection is made.
The Universal ColorLogic/CrystaLogic will be wired in the same manner.
Disconnect the existing light at
the junction box or at the trans-
former. Remove the light from the
niche.
Firmly pull on the light cord
at the junction box and verify that
Place the light on the pool deck and cut the light
cord as shown below.
Pre-Installation Checklist
Installation Preparation
Existing pool or spa light operates on 12 volts
You have a pool transformer capable of supplying 70 watts at 12-14 volts
Light fixture housing (Niche) has been installed per the National Electrical Code (NEC)
Your niche is compatible with the new light (refer to compatibility table in manual)
If replacing a SwimQuip
®
light, the tab on the Universal ColorLogic
TM
/CrystaLogic
TM
light may
need to be removed (refer to manual)
You have wire cutters or shears for cutting the existing light cord
You have duct tape for taping the new cord to the old cord when pulling through conduit
You have a Phillips head screwdriver
You are qualified to work on electrical wiring and understand electric code requirements and
wiring methods
Read the entire Universal ColorLogic/CrystaLogic manual
Read this entire Guide
Remove power to the existing pool or spa light at the service panel!
Use this Guide ONLY if your current light is a low voltage (12v)
type. Refer to other Guide if your light is 120v.
the cord moves free-
ly.
There may be a
grommet or sealant
at the light cord’s
point of entry into
the niche.
Remov-
ing this should allow
the cord to pull freely
through the conduit.
Leave cord in place
until Step 6.