JBL AWC82 AWC Painting Instruction - Page 1

JBL AWC82 Manual

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Painting JBL Professional's AWC Cabinets 130806RK/JA CABINET  Removing Grille: Note the orientation of the grille (via the grille logo position) so that the grille can be reassembled in the same orientation (if that orientation is desired). Remove the grille by removing the grille screws around the perimeter of the grille and pulling the grille straight off.  Masking: o Mask the entire front baffle of the speaker, including the drivers. Regardless the color of the original cabinet (white or black), the baffle is black. It should remain black, which makes the details behind the grille recede visually. o Mask the two side-located M10 bracket mounting insert points and the one brass M6 insert point on the back of the back of the cabinet (which comes covered with a rubber plug). o Remove the back terminal cover plate and paint it separately (if you decide to paint it). Mask the inside of the terminal recess area, including masking over the foam gasket that runs around the edges to make a water-tight seal against the back terminal cover plate.  The cabinet is made of fiberglass-reinforced ABS and the paint over that material is non-gloss polyurethane paint, which is used because it has good water, chemical and weather resistance. If the cabinet surface is dirty, lightly wipe with a sponge and a small amount of mild liquid dish soap and then rinse. Dry the surface and let it completely air dry for at least half an hour.  The painted surface is usually sufficiently rough to allow for good adhesion, but in areas of the cabinet where there may not be much paint texture, it is sometimes best to very lightly roughen the surface to provide a surface to which the new paint can grip using fine-grade sandpaper. Again, any roughing should be very light, and the surface should not feel "glass smooth" when you are done. Don't roughen so much as to remove the paint, which is a thin layer.  The surface requires no primer paint, however for maximum adhesion, you can use any sort of bonding primer that is designed to work over polyurethane and to which the paint type that you intend to use will stick.  The choice of paint type depends on the circumstances in which the speaker will be installed. Just about any solvent-based paint can be used, however the paint must be of a type that stands up to the expected elements to which the speaker will be subjected, including precipitation, UV and any corrosive air. Consider the UV resistance, mold resistance, corrosion resistance, and general weatherability of the paint.  For both primer (if used) and paint, always test on a small area first.  Apply the paint in multiple thin layers, allowing each layer to dry completely according to the instructions on your brand of paint before applying the next layer.  In addition to the cabinet, paint the already-removed terminal cover plate, if desired. (continued) 1

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Painting JBL Professional’s AWC Cabinets
130806RK/JA
CABINET
Removing Grille:
Note the orientation of the grille (via the grille logo position) so that the grille can be
reassembled in the same orientation (if that orientation is desired).
Remove the grille by removing the
grille screws around the perimeter of the grille and pulling the grille straight off.
Masking:
o
Mask the entire front baffle of the speaker, including the drivers.
Regardless the color of the
original cabinet (white or black), the baffle is black.
It should remain black, which makes the
details behind the grille recede visually.
o
Mask the two side-located M10 bracket mounting insert points and the one brass M6 insert
point on the back of the back of the cabinet (which comes covered with a rubber plug).
o
Remove the back terminal cover plate and paint it separately (if you decide to paint it).
Mask
the inside of the terminal recess area, including masking over the foam gasket that runs
around the edges to make a water-tight seal against the back terminal cover plate.
The cabinet is made of fiberglass-reinforced ABS and the paint over that material is non-gloss
polyurethane paint, which is used because it has good water, chemical and weather resistance.
If the
cabinet surface is dirty, lightly wipe with a sponge and a small amount of mild liquid dish soap and then
rinse.
Dry the surface and let it completely air dry for at least half an hour.
The painted surface is usually sufficiently rough to allow for good adhesion, but in areas of the cabinet
where there may not be much paint texture, it is sometimes best to very lightly roughen the surface to
provide a surface to which the new paint can grip using fine-grade sandpaper.
Again, any roughing
should be very light, and the surface should not feel “glass smooth” when you are done.
Don’t
roughen so much as to remove the paint, which is a thin layer.
The surface requires no primer paint, however for maximum adhesion, you can use any sort of
bonding primer that is designed to work over polyurethane and to which the paint type that you intend
to use will stick.
The choice of paint type depends on the circumstances in which the speaker will be installed.
Just
about any solvent-based paint can be used, however the paint must be of a type that stands up to the
expected elements to which the speaker will be subjected, including precipitation, UV and any
corrosive air.
Consider the UV resistance, mold resistance, corrosion resistance, and general
weatherability of the paint.
For both primer (if used) and paint, always test on a small area first.
Apply the paint in multiple thin layers, allowing each layer to dry completely according to the
instructions on your brand of paint before applying the next layer.
In addition to the cabinet, paint the already-removed terminal cover plate, if desired.
(continued)