LG LMC25780SB Owner's Manual - Page 18

Connecting The Water Lines

Page 18 highlights

CONNECTING THE WATER LINES BEFORE YOU BEGIN This water line installation is not warranted by the refrigerator or icemaker manufacturer. Follow these instructions carefully to minimize the risk of expensive water damage. Water hammer (water banging in the pipes) in house plumbing can cause damage to refrigerator parts and lead to water leakage or flooding. Call a qualified plumber to correct water hammer before installing the water supply line to the refrigerator. To prevent burns and product damage, do not hook up the water line to the hot water line. If you use your refrigerator before connecting the water line, make sure the icemaker power switch is in the O (off) position. Do not install the icemaker tubing in areas where temperatures fall below freezing. When using any electrical device (such as a power drill) during installation, be sure the device is doubleinsulated or grounded in a manner to prevent the hazard of electric shock, or is battery-powered. All installations must be in accordance with local plumbing code requirements. NOTE: Wear eye protection. WHAT YOU WILL NEED • Copper Tubing, 1/4" outer diameter to connect the refrigerator to the water supply. Be sure both ends of the tubing are cut square. To determine how much tubing you need: measure the distance from the water valve on the back of the refrigerator to the water supply pipe. Then add 8 feet (2.4 m). Be sure there is sufficient extra tubing (about 8 feet [2.4 m] coiled into 3 turns of about 10" [25 cm] diameter) to allow the refrigerator to move out from the wall after installation. • A cold water supply. The water pressure must be between 20 and 120 p.s.i. on models without a water filter and between 40 and 120 p.s.i. on models with a water filter. • Power drill. • 1/2" or adjustable wrench. • Straight- and Phillips-blade screwdriver. • Two 1/4" outer diameter compression nuts and 2 ferrules (sleeves) to connect the copper tubing to the shutoff valve and the refrigerator water valve. • If your existing copper water line has a flared fitting at the end, you will need an adapter (available at plumbing supply stores) to connect the water line to the refrigerator OR you can cut off the flared fitting with a tube cutter and then use a compression fitting. • Shutoff valve to connect to the cold water line. The shutoff valve should have a water inlet with a minimum inside diameter of 5/32" at the point of connection to the COLD WATER LINE. Saddle-type shutoff valves are included in many water supply kits. Before purchasing, make sure a saddle-type valve complies with your local plumbing codes. 18

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18
CONNECTING THE WATER LINES
BEFORE YOU BEGIN
This water line installation is not warranted by the
refrigerator or icemaker manufacturer. Follow these
instructions carefully to minimize the risk of expensive
water damage.
Water hammer (water banging in the pipes) in house
plumbing can cause damage to refrigerator parts and
lead to water leakage or flooding. Call a qualified
plumber to correct water hammer before installing the
water supply line to the refrigerator.
To prevent burns and product damage, do not hook
up the water line to the hot water line.
If you use your refrigerator before connecting the
water line, make sure the icemaker power switch is in
the O (off) position.
Do not install the icemaker tubing in areas where
temperatures fall below freezing.
When using any electrical device (such as a power
drill) during installation, be sure the device is double-
insulated or grounded in a manner to prevent the
hazard of electric shock, or is battery-powered.
All installations must be in accordance with local
plumbing code requirements.
NOTE:
Wear eye protection.
WHAT YOU WILL NEED
• Copper Tubing, 1/4" outer
diameter to connect the
refrigerator to the water
supply. Be sure both ends of
the tubing are cut square.
To determine how much
tubing you need: measure the distance from the
water valve on the back of the refrigerator to the
water supply pipe. Then add 8 feet (2.4 m). Be sure
there is sufficient extra tubing (about 8 feet [2.4 m]
coiled into 3 turns of about 10" [25 cm] diameter) to
allow the refrigerator to move out from the wall after
installation.
• A cold water supply. The water pressure must be
between 20 and 120 p.s.i. on models without a
water filter and between 40 and 120 p.s.i. on models
with a water filter.
• Power drill.
• 1/2" or adjustable wrench.
• Straight- and Phillips-blade
screwdriver.
• Two 1/4" outer diameter
compression nuts and 2
ferrules (sleeves) to connect
the copper tubing to the
shutoff valve and the
refrigerator water valve.
• If your existing copper water
line has a flared fitting at the
end, you will need an adapter
(available at plumbing supply
stores) to connect the water
line to the refrigerator OR you
can cut off the flared fitting with a tube cutter and
then use a compression fitting.
• Shutoff valve to connect to
the cold water line. The
shutoff valve should have a
water inlet with a minimum
inside diameter of 5/32" at
the point of connection to the
COLD WATER LINE. Saddle-type shutoff valves are
included in many water supply kits. Before
purchasing, make sure a saddle-type valve complies
with your local plumbing codes.