Amana ASI2575GRS use - Page 7

PROBLEM, Possible Causes and/or Recommended Solutions

Page 7 highlights

PROBLEM Refrigerator will not operate Refrigerator seems noisy Motor seems to run too much Temperature is too warm Temperature is too cold Interior moisture buildup Possible Causes and/or Recommended Solutions ■■ Not connected to an electrical supply: Plug the power cord into a grounded 3 prong outlet. Do not use an extension cord. ■■ No power to the electrical outlet: Plug in a lamp to see if the outlet is working. ■■ Household fuse has blown or circuit breaker has tripped: Replace the fuse or reset the circuit breaker. If the problem continues, contact a licensed electrician. ■■ New installation: Following installation, allow 24 hours for the refrigerator and freezer to cool completely. NOTE: Adjusting the temperature control(s) to the coldest setting will not cool either compartment (refrigerator or freezer) more quickly. The compressor in your new refrigerator regulates temperature more efficiently and uses less energy than older models. During various stages of operation, you may hear normal operating sounds that are unfamiliar. The following noises are normal: ■■ Buzzing/Clicking: Heard when the water valve opens and closes to dispense water or fill the ice maker. If the refrigerator is connected to a water line, this is normal. If the refrigerator is not connected to a water line, turn off the ice maker. ■■ Cracking/Crashing: Heard when ice is ejected from the ice maker mold. ■■ Popping: Heard when the inside walls contract/expand, especially during initial cooldown. ■■ Pulsating/Whirring: Heard when the fans/compressor adjust to optimize performance during normal operation. ■■ Rattling: Heard when water passes through the water line, or due to the flow of refrigerant. Rattling may also come from items placed on top of the refrigerator. ■■ Water running or gurgling: Heard when ice melts during the defrost cycle and water runs into the drain pan. ■■ Sizzling: Heard when water drips onto the heater during the defrost cycle. ■■ Your new refrigerator has an energy-efficient motor: The refrigerator may run longer than you're used to, because the compressor and fans operate at lower speeds that are more energy-efficient. This is normal. NOTE: Your refrigerator may run even longer if the room is warm, a large load of food is added, the doors are opened often, or if a door has been left open. ■■ New installation: Following installation, allow 24 hours for the refrigerator and freezer to cool completely. NOTE: Adjusting the temperature control(s) to the coldest setting will not cool either compartment (refrigerator or freezer) more quickly. ■■ Doors are opened often or not closed completely: This allows warm air to enter the refrigerator. Minimize door openings, keep the doors fully closed, and make sure both doors are properly sealed. ■■ Air vents are blocked: Remove items that are immediately in front of the vents. ■■ Large amount of warm food recently added: Allow several hours for the refrigerator to return to its normal temperature. ■■ Controls are not set correctly for the surrounding conditions: Adjust the controls to a colder setting. Check the temperature again in 24 hours. ■■ Controls are not set correctly for the surrounding conditions: Adjust the controls to a warmer setting. Check the temperature again in 24 hours. ■■ Top refrigerator shelf is colder than lower shelves: On some models, air from the freezer enters the refrigerator compartment through vents near the top refrigerator shelf. As a result, the top shelf can be slightly colder than lower shelves. ■■ Air vents are blocked: Remove items that are immediately in front of the vents. NOTE: Some moisture buildup is normal. Clean with a soft, dry cloth. ■■ Room is humid: A humid environment contributes to moisture buildup. Use the refrigerator only in an indoor location, with as little humidity as possible. ■■ Doors are opened often or not closed completely - This allows humid air to enter the refrigerator. Minimize door openings, keep the doors fully closed, and make sure both doors are properly sealed. 7

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7
PROBLEM
Possible Causes and/or Recommended Solutions
Refrigerator will not operate
Not connected to an electrical supply:
Plug the power cord into a grounded 3 prong outlet.
Do not use an extension cord.
No power to the electrical outlet:
Plug in a lamp to see if the outlet is working.
Household fuse has blown or circuit breaker has tripped:
Replace the fuse or reset the
circuit breaker. If the problem continues, contact a licensed electrician.
New installation:
Following installation, allow 24 hours for the refrigerator and freezer to
cool completely.
NOTE:
Adjusting the temperature control(s) to the coldest setting will not cool either
compartment (refrigerator or freezer) more quickly.
Refrigerator seems noisy
The compressor in your new refrigerator regulates temperature more efficiently and uses less
energy than older models. During various stages of operation, you may hear normal operating
sounds that are unfamiliar.
The following noises are normal:
Buzzing/Clicking:
Heard when the water valve opens and closes to dispense water or fill the
ice maker. If the refrigerator is connected to a water line, this is normal. If the refrigerator is
not connected to a water line, turn off the ice maker.
Cracking/Crashing:
Heard when ice is ejected from the ice maker mold.
Popping:
Heard when the inside walls contract/expand, especially during initial cooldown.
Pulsating/Whirring:
Heard when the fans/compressor adjust to optimize performance
during normal operation.
Rattling:
Heard when water passes through the water line, or due to the flow of refrigerant.
Rattling may also come from items placed on top of the refrigerator.
Water running or gurgling:
Heard when ice melts during the defrost cycle and water runs
into the drain pan.
Sizzling:
Heard when water drips onto the heater during the defrost cycle.
Motor seems to run too much
Your new refrigerator has an energy-efficient motor:
The refrigerator may run longer than
you’re used to, because the compressor and fans operate at lower speeds that are more
energy-efficient. This is normal.
NOTE:
Your refrigerator may run even longer if the room is warm, a large load of food is
added, the doors are opened often, or if a door has been left open.
Temperature is too warm
New installation:
Following installation, allow 24 hours for the refrigerator and freezer to cool
completely.
NOTE:
Adjusting the temperature control(s) to the coldest setting will not cool either
compartment (refrigerator or freezer) more quickly.
Doors are opened often or not closed completely:
This allows warm air to enter the
refrigerator. Minimize door openings, keep the doors fully closed, and make sure both doors
are properly sealed.
Air vents are blocked:
Remove items that are immediately in front of the vents.
Large amount of warm food recently added:
Allow several hours for the refrigerator to
return to its normal temperature.
Controls are not set correctly for the surrounding conditions:
Adjust the controls to a
colder setting. Check the temperature again in 24 hours.
Temperature is too cold
Controls are not set correctly for the surrounding conditions:
Adjust the controls to a
warmer setting. Check the temperature again in 24 hours.
Top refrigerator shelf is colder than lower shelves:
On some models, air from the freezer
enters the refrigerator compartment through vents near the top refrigerator shelf. As a result,
the top shelf can be slightly colder than lower shelves.
Air vents are blocked:
Remove items that are immediately in front of the vents.
Interior moisture buildup
NOTE:
Some moisture buildup is normal. Clean with a soft, dry cloth.
Room is humid:
A humid environment contributes to moisture buildup. Use the refrigerator
only in an indoor location, with as little humidity as possible.
Doors are opened often or not closed completely -
This allows humid air to enter the
refrigerator. Minimize door openings, keep the doors fully closed, and make sure both doors
are properly sealed.