Brother International PQ1600S Operation Manual - Page 20

Stitch Samples and Needle Chart Stitch Samples 1 Set stitch length regulator to desired stitch length. 2 Make sure approximately 15 cm (approx. 6 inches) of upper thread is pulled under the presser foot and toward the rear of the machine. While needle is in raised position, insert a test strip from the garment fabric under the foot. 3 Lower presser foot. 4 Turn the handwheel toward you to lower the needle through the fabric, then press gently on the foot controller to begin. 5 Turn the handwheel toward you to raise the needle and thread take-up lever to their highest positions. 6 Raise the presser foot and remove fabric. Manually cut the thread with the thread trimmer located on the left side of the machine, or with a pair of scissors. ✽ When using thread cutter: 5 Press the thread cutter button while the presser foot lever is in the down position. 6 Raise presser foot and remove fabric. 18 Thread Tension ✽ Bobbin thread should feed smoothly. Adjust bobbin thread to match that of upper thread. (If bobbin thread is too tight it may cause fabric to bunch up.) Adjust the upper thread to match the bobbin thread. Correct thread tension Fabric Upper Thread Wrong side of fabric Right side of Fabric Lower Thread Upper Thread to increase needle thread tension to reduce bobbin tension Bobbin tension . . . Proper When it is strong Lower Thread Wrong side of fabric Right side of Fabric Lower Thread to reduce needle thread tension Incorrect thread tension can lead to such undesirable results as messy stitches, puckered seams Upper Thread and thread breakage. Bobbin tension . . . Proper When it is week to increase bobbin tension ● Fabric/Thread/Needle Combinations ✽ The following chart applies to many different fabric, thread and needle combinations. Specialty fabrics Light weight fabrics Medium weight fabrics Heavy weight fabrics Fabric - Thread - Needles Cloth Thread Velvet Silk, Polyester #30 - #50 Quilt Polyester #20 - #50 Synthetic Suede Polyester #20 - #50 Knit Polyester #20 - #50 Coating Polyester #50 Lawn Cotton #80 Tricot Polyester #60 Silk Georgette Silk #50 Wool Georgette Silk, Polyester #50 Gingham Cotton #60 - #80 Lightweight Jersey Polyester #60 Gabardine, Flannel Silk #50 Denim Cotton #20 - #50 Jersey Polyester #20 - #50 Tweed Silk #20 - #50 Needle (HLX5) #11 - #14 #11 - #16 #11 - #14 #9 HLX5 #9 #11 #14 #16 #18 Schmetz 130/705H #65 #75 #90 #100 #110 #11 #11 - #14 #11 #14 - #18 #11 - #16 ✽ HLX5 needles are recommended; however, Schmetz 130/705H needles may also be used under normal sewing conditions. ✽ Adjust the pressure adjustment dial and the feed dog adjustment knob according to the chart on the sewing machine. ✽ When sewing on knit fabrics such as jersey or tricot, use a ballpoint needle or a needle designed for use with knit fabrics. ✽ For best results when using metallic threads, sew with a good quality thread, set upper tension on 2, and use metallic needle.