LG LFC25770SW Owner's Manual - Page 33

Troubleshooting Guide - fan motor

Page 33 highlights

TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE UNDERSTANDING SOUNDS YOU MAY HEAR Your new refrigerator may make sounds that your old one didn't make. Because the sounds are new to you, you might be concerned about them. Most of the new sounds are normal. Hard surfaces, like the floor, walls and cabinets, can make the sounds seem louder than they actually are. The following describes the kinds of sounds and what may be making them. • The defrost timer will click when the automatic defrost cycle begins and ends. The thermostat control (or refrigerator control, depending on the model) will also click when cycling on and off. • Rattling noises may come from the flow of refrigerant, the water line, or items stored on top of the refrigerator. • Your refrigerator is designed to run more efficiently to keep your food items at the desired temperature. The high efficiency compressor may cause your new refrigerator to run longer than your old one, and you may hear a pulsating or high-pitched sound. • You may hear the evaporator fan motor circulating the air through the refrigerator and freezer compartments. • As each cycle ends, you may hear a gurgling sound due to the refrigerant flowing in your refrigerator. • Contraction and expansion of the inside walls may cause a popping noise. • Water dripping on the defrost heater during a defrost cycle may cause a sizzling sound. • You may hear air being forced over the condenser by the condenser fan. • You may hear water running into the drain pan during the defrost cycle. REFRIGERATOR DOES NOT OPERATE Check if... The power supply cord is unplugged. A household fuse has blown or circuit breaker tripped. The refrigerator control is set to the OFF position. Refrigerator is in the defrost cycle. Then... ❿ Firmly plug the cord into a live outlet with proper voltage. ❿ Replace the fuse or reset the circuit breaker. ❿ Refer to the Setting the Controls section on page 20. ❿ Wait about 30 minutes for defrost cycle to end. VIBRATION OR The refrigerator is not resting solidly on the floor. ❿ Floor is weak or uneven or leveling legs need RATTLING NOISE adjusting. See Installation section on page 12. LIGHTS DO NOT WORK The power supply cord is unplugged. Light bulb is loose in the socket. Light bulb has burned out. Door is left open for seven continuous minutes. 33 ❿ Firmly plug the cord into a live outlet with proper voltage. ❿ Turn the refrigerator control to the OFF position and unplug the refrigerator. Gently remove the bulb and reinsert. Then plug in refrigerator and reset the refrigerator control. ❿ Replace with an appliance bulb of the same wattage, size and shape available at your local hardware store. (See the Changing the Light Bulb(s) section on pages 27-28.) Turn the temperature control to the OFF position and unplug the refrigerator prior to replacement. ❿ Shutting door for one second will light bulbs to come back on.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • 6
  • 7
  • 8
  • 9
  • 10
  • 11
  • 12
  • 13
  • 14
  • 15
  • 16
  • 17
  • 18
  • 19
  • 20
  • 21
  • 22
  • 23
  • 24
  • 25
  • 26
  • 27
  • 28
  • 29
  • 30
  • 31
  • 32
  • 33
  • 34
  • 35
  • 36
  • 37

TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
33
UNDERSTANDING SOUNDS YOU MAY HEAR
Your new refrigerator may make sounds that your old one
didn’t make. Because the sounds are new to you, you might
be concerned about them. Most of the new sounds are
normal. Hard surfaces, like the floor, walls and cabinets, can
make the sounds seem louder than they actually are. The
following describes the kinds of sounds and what may be
making them.
• The defrost timer will click when the automatic defrost cycle
begins and ends. The thermostat control (or refrigerator
control, depending on the model) will also click when
cycling on and off.
• Rattling noises may come from the flow of refrigerant, the
water line, or items stored on top of the refrigerator.
• Your refrigerator is designed to run more efficiently to keep
your food items at the desired temperature.
The high efficiency compressor may cause your new
refrigerator to run longer than your old one, and you may
hear a pulsating or high-pitched sound.
• You may hear the evaporator fan motor circulating the air
through the refrigerator and freezer compartments.
• As each cycle ends, you may hear a gurgling sound due to
the refrigerant flowing in your refrigerator.
• Contraction and expansion of the inside walls may cause a
popping noise.
• Water dripping on the defrost heater during a defrost cycle
may cause a sizzling sound.
• You may hear air being forced over the condenser by the
condenser fan.
• You may hear water running into the drain pan during the
defrost cycle.
REFRIGERATOR
DOES NOT
OPERATE
VIBRATION OR
RATTLING NOISE
LIGHTS DO NOT
WORK
The power supply cord is unplugged.
A household fuse has blown or circuit
breaker tripped.
The refrigerator control is set to the OFF position.
Refrigerator is in the defrost cycle.
The refrigerator is not resting solidly on the floor.
The power supply cord is unplugged.
Light bulb is loose in the socket.
Light bulb has burned out.
Door is left open for seven continuous minutes.
Firmly plug the cord into a live outlet with proper
voltage.
Replace the fuse or reset the circuit breaker.
Refer to the
Setting the Controls
section on
page 20.
Wait about 30 minutes for defrost cycle to end.
Floor is weak or uneven or leveling legs need
adjusting. See
Installation
section on page 12.
Firmly plug the cord into a live outlet with proper
voltage.
Turn the refrigerator control to the OFF position
and unplug the refrigerator. Gently remove the
bulb and reinsert. Then plug in refrigerator and
reset the refrigerator control.
Replace with an appliance bulb of the same
wattage, size and shape available at your local
hardware store. (See the
Changing the Light
Bulb(s)
section on pages 27-28.) Turn the
temperature control to the OFF position and
unplug the refrigerator prior to replacement.
Shutting door for one second will light bulbs to
come back on.
Check if…
Then…