LG LSC27925SW Owner's Manual - Page 23

TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE UNDERSTANDING SOUNDS YOU MAY HEAR Your new refrigerator may make sounds that your old one did not make. Because the sounds are new to you, you might be concerned about them. Most of the new sounds are normal. Hard surfaces, like the floor, walls and cabinets, can make the sounds seem louder than they actually are. The following list describes the kinds of sounds and what may be making them. • The defrost timer will click when the automatic defrost cycle begins and ends. The thermostat control (or refrigerator control, depending on the model) will also click when cycling on and off. • Rattling noises may come from the flow of refrigerant, the water line, or items stored on top of the refrigerator. • Your refrigerator is designed to run more efficiently to keep your food items at the desired temperature. The high efficiency compressor may cause your new refrigerator to run longer than your old one, and you may hear a pulsating or high-pitched sound. • You may hear the evaporator fan motor circulating the air through the refrigerator and freezer compartments. • As each cycle ends, you may hear a gurgling sound due to the refrigerant flowing in your refrigerator. • Contraction and expansion of the inside walls may cause a popping noise. • Water dripping on the defrost heater during a defrost cycle may cause a sizzling sound. • You may hear air being forced over the condenser by the condenser fan. • You may hear water running into the drain pan during the defrost cycle. Problem Possible Causes Solutions REFRIGERATOR DOES NOT OPERATE • The power supply cord is unplugged. • A household fuse has blown or circuit breaker tripped. • The refrigerator control is set to the OFF position. • Refrigerator is in the defrost cycle. • Firmly plug the cord into a live outlet with proper voltage. • Replace the fuse or reset the circuit breaker. • Refer to the "Control Panel Features" section. • Wait about 30 minutes for defrost cycle to end. VIBRATION OR RATTLING NOISE • The refrigerator is not resting solidly • Floor is weak or uneven or leveling legs need on the floor. adjusting. See "Door Alignment" Section. LED (LAMP) NOT WORK DO • The power supply cord is unplugged. • Firmly plug the cord into a live outlet with proper voltage. • LED Light has burned out. • See the "Light (LED) Replacement" section. COMPRESSOR MOTOR SEEMS TO RUN TOO MUCH • The refrigerator that was replaced was an older model. • The room temperature is hotter than normal. • The refrigerator was recently plugged in and the refrigerator control was set correctly. • The door is opened often or a large amount has just been added. • The refrigerator control was not set correctly for the surrounding conditions. • Modern refrigerators with more storage space require more operating time. • The motor will run longer under warm conditions. At normal room temperatures, expect your motor to run about 40% to 80% of the time. Under warmer conditions, expect it to run even more often. • The refrigerator will take up to 24 hours to cool completely. • Adding food and opening the door warms the refrigerator. It is normal for the refrigerator to run longer in order to conserve energy, try to get everything you need out of the refrigerator at once, keep food organized so it is easy to find and close the door as soon as the food is removed. See the "Food Storage Guide" section. • See the "Adjusting Control Settings" Section. 23