Hayward W3SAS-PRO Salt-Swim-Inground-30000-Gallons-Owners-Manual-092742RevB - Page 17

Troubleshooting

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Troubleshooting Visit www.hayward.com or call (908)-355-7995 for helpful information on operation, maintenance and troubleshooting your Salt & Swim Electronic Chlorine Generator. Common Problems and Solutions The Salt & Swim's various LEDs show the operation status as well as alert the user to any problems that may have occurred. Some indications may require a combination of LEDs to illuminate. To aid in interpreting these indications, Hayward has created an interactive tool located at www.hayward. com. Use this tool and the information below to identify and correct problems that may arise. 1. Possible causes of little or no free chlorine residual - DAILY CHLORINE OUTPUT adjustment setting is too low - Low stabilizer (Cyanuric Acid) - Filter pump time too short (8 hours for average size pools, more for large pools) - Salt level too low (below 2400 ppm) - Salt level too high - Very warm pools increase chlorine demand--increase Output %, or filter run time - Cold water below 50ºF causes Salt & Swim to stop generating - Cold water between 50ºF - 60ºF causes Salt & Swim to reduce output regardless of DAILY CHLORINE OUTPUT setting - Excessive scaling on Cell. - High level of Nitrogen in pool water. - "Yellow Out" or similar treatment recently used. Some yellow algae treatments will use chlorine at a very high rate and deplete the residual free chlorine. Manually shock the pool if indicated in the directions on the algae treatment. It still may be a matter of days before the pool returns to "normal" and chlorine tests will show the desired 1-3ppm free chlorine read- ing. 2. LEDs not on Depending on current conditions, there should always be at least one LED illuminated when the Salt & Swim is powered. If no LEDs are on, check to make sure that the linecord is plugged in and that the GFCI outlet is powered. If no power is detected, the GFCI may have to be reset. 3. STANDING BY LED blinking The Salt & Swim has shut down because the temperature of the pool/spa water is too high (120ºF) or too low (50ºF). The system will not resume operation until the water temperature returns to normal. Note: This condition can sometimes happen if the pool/spa temperature is already high and the heater is running. The temperature coming out of the heater and into the Cell could possibly be high enough to shut down the Salt & Swim. 4. INADEQUATE WATER FLOW LED illuminated The Salt & Swim has sensed a low flow or no flow condition and has stopped generating chlorine. - Verify that the filter pump is running and there are no obstructions or restrictions in the pool plumbing. - Backwash the pool filter. - Increase the speed of your variable speed pump 15 USE ONLY HAYWARD GENUINE REPLACEMENT PARTS

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Troubleshooting
Visit www.hayward.com or call (908)-355-7995 for helpful information on operation, maintenance
and troubleshooting your Salt & Swim Electronic Chlorine Generator.
Common Problems and Solutions
The Salt & Swim's various LEDs show the operation status as well as alert the user to any problems
that may have occurred.
Some indications may require a combination of LEDs to illuminate.
To aid
in interpreting these indications, Hayward has created an interactive tool located at www.hayward.
com.
Use this tool and the information below to identify and correct problems that may arise.
1.
Possible causes of little or no free chlorine residual
-
DAILY CHLORINE OUTPUT adjustment setting is too low
-
Low stabilizer (Cyanuric Acid)
-
Filter pump time too short (8 hours for average size pools, more for large pools)
-
Salt level too low (below 2400 ppm)
-
Salt level too high
-
Very warm pools increase chlorine demand--increase Output %, or filter run time
-
Cold water
below 50ºF causes Salt & Swim to stop generating
-
Cold water between 50ºF - 60ºF causes Salt & Swim to reduce output regardless of DAILY
CHLORINE OUTPUT setting
-
Excessive scaling on Cell.
-
High level of Nitrogen in pool water.
-
"Yellow Out" or similar treatment recently used. Some yellow algae treatments will use
chlorine at a very high rate and deplete the residual free chlorine. Manually shock the pool if
indicated in the directions on the algae treatment.
It still may be a matter of days before the
pool returns to "normal" and chlorine tests will show the desired 1-3ppm free chlorine read-
ing.
2.
LEDs not on
Depending on current conditions, there should always be at least one LED illuminated when the Salt
& Swim is powered.
If no LEDs are on, check to make sure that the linecord is plugged in and that
the GFCI outlet is powered.
If no power is detected, the GFCI may have to be reset.
3.
STANDING BY LED blinking
The Salt & Swim has shut down because the temperature of the pool/spa water is too high (120ºF)
or too low (50ºF).
The system will not resume operation until the water temperature returns to
normal. Note: This condition can sometimes happen if the pool/spa temperature is already high and
the heater is running.
The temperature coming out of the heater and into the Cell could possibly be
high enough to shut down the Salt & Swim.
4.
INADEQUATE WATER FLOW LED illuminated
The Salt & Swim has sensed a low flow or no flow condition and has stopped generating chlorine.
-
Verify that the filter pump is running and there are no obstructions or restrictions in the pool
plumbing.
-
Backwash the pool filter.
-
Increase the speed of your variable speed pump
USE ONLY HAYWARD GENUINE REPLACEMENT PARTS
15