Ryobi RTS21 English Manual - Page 30

Making A Bevel Rip Cut, Warning, Making A Compound Bevel Miter Cut

Page 30 highlights

operation making a bevel rip cut See Figure 38. It is recommended you make test cuts on scrap wood. WARNING: The rip fence must be on the right side of the blade to avoid trapping the wood and causing kickback. Placement of the rip fence to the left of the blade will result in kickback and the risk of serious personal injury. BEVEL RIP CUT BLADE ANGLED RIP FENCE WARNING: Make sure the blade guard assembly is installed and working properly to avoid serious personal injury. SCALE  Adjust the bevel angle to the desired setting.  Set the blade to the correct depth.  Position the rip fence the desired distance from the right side of the blade and lock down the handle. Adjust the scale to zero at the cutting edge of the blade.  Place a support (the same height as saw table) behind the saw for the cut work. Add supports to the sides as needed.  Turn the power switch to the ON position. NOTE: Make sure the wood does not touch the blade before you turn on the saw. Let the blade build up to full speed before feeding the workpiece into the blade.  Position the workpiece flat on the table with the edge flush against the rip fence.  Stand to the side of the wood as it contacts the blade to reduce the chance of injury should kickback occur. Never stand directly in the line of cut.  Use a push block or push stick to move the wood through the cut past the blade. Never push a small piece of wood into the blade with your hand, always use a push stick. The use of push blocks, push sticks, and featherboards are necessary when making non-through cuts.  Once the blade has made contact with the workpiece, use the hand closest to the rip fence to guide it. Make sure the edge of the workpiece remains in solid contact with both the rip fence and the surface of the table. If ripping a narrow piece, use a push stick to move the piece through the cut and past the blade.  When the cut is made, turn the saw off. Wait for the blade to come to a complete stop before removing the workpiece. Fig. 38 making a compound (bevel) miter cut See Figure 39. It is recommended that you place the piece to be saved on the left side of the blade and that you make a test cut on scrap wood first. WARNING: The miter gauge must be on the right side of the blade to avoid trapping the wood and causing kickback. Placement of the miter gauge to the left of the blade will result in kickback and the risk of serious personal injury. WARNING: Make sure the blade guard assembly is installed and working properly to avoid possible serious injury.  Remove the rip fence by lifting the lock down handle.  Unlock the bevel locking lever.  Adjust the bevel angle to the desired setting.  Lock the bevel locking lever. 30

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30
OPERATION
MAKING A BEVEL RIP CUT
See Figure 38.
It is recommended you make test cuts on scrap wood.
WARNING:
The rip fence must be on the right side of the blade to
avoid trapping the wood and causing kickback. Place-
ment of the rip fence to the left of the blade will result in
kickback and the risk of serious personal injury.
WARNING:
Make sure the blade guard assembly is installed and
working properly to avoid serious personal injury.
Adjust the bevel angle to the desired setting.
Set the blade to the correct depth.
Position the rip fence the desired distance from the right
side of the blade and lock down the handle. Adjust the
scale to zero at the cutting edge of the blade.
Place a support (the same height as saw table) behind
the saw for the cut work. Add supports to the sides as
needed.
Turn the power switch to the
ON
position.
NOTE:
Make sure the wood does not touch the blade
before you turn on the saw. Let the blade build up to full
speed before feeding the workpiece into the blade.
Position the workpiece flat on the table with the edge
flush against the rip fence.
Stand to the side of the wood as it contacts the blade to
reduce the chance of injury should kickback occur.
Never
stand directly in the line of cut.
Use a push block or push stick to move the wood through
the cut past the blade.
Never push a small piece of
wood into the blade with your hand, always use a
push stick.
The use of push blocks, push sticks, and
featherboards are necessary when making non-through
cuts.
Once the blade has made contact with the workpiece,
use the hand closest to the rip fence to guide it. Make
sure the edge of the workpiece remains in solid contact
with both the rip fence and the surface of the table. If rip-
ping a narrow piece, use a push stick to move the piece
through the cut and past the blade.
When the cut is made, turn the saw off. Wait for the
blade to come to a complete stop before removing the
workpiece.
Fig. 38
BEVEL RIP CUT
RIP FENCE
SCALE
BLADE
ANGLED
MAKING A COMPOUND (BEVEL) MITER CUT
See Figure 39.
It is recommended that you place the piece to be saved on
the left side of the blade and that you make a test cut on
scrap wood first.
WARNING:
The miter gauge must be on the right side of the blade to
avoid trapping the wood and causing kickback. Place-
ment of the miter gauge to the left of the blade will result
in kickback and the risk of serious personal injury.
WARNING:
Make sure the blade guard assembly is installed and
working properly to avoid possible serious injury.
Remove the rip fence by lifting the lock down handle.
Unlock the bevel locking lever.
Adjust the bevel angle to the desired setting.
Lock the bevel locking lever.