Ryobi TSS702 Operation Manual - Page 26
Making An Auxiliary Fence
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OPERATION Turn the LED switch on. Lower the blade and align the cutting line on the workpiece with the edge of saw blade or the blade shadow. Loosen the slide lock knob by turning the knob counter clockwise. Grasp the stock firmly with one hand and secure it against the fence. Use the work clamp or a C-clamp to secure the workpiece when possible. Before turning on the saw, perform a dry run of the cutting operation to make sure that no problems will occur when the cut is made. With the saw off, grasp the saw handle firmly then pull the saw forward until the blade arbor (center of the saw blade) is over the front of the workpiece or until the saw is fully extended. Depress the trigger lockout lever and squeeze the switch trigger. Allow several seconds for the blade to reach maximum speed. Slowly lower the blade into and through the front edge of the workpiece. Push the saw handle away from you and toward the bevel scale at the back of the saw. Release the switch trigger and allow the saw blade to stop rotating before raising the blade out of workpiece and removing the workpiece from miter table. NOTE: A cross cut is made by cutting across the grain of the workpiece. A straight cross cut is made with the miter table set at the 0° position. Miter cross cuts are made with the miter table set at some angle other than 0°. SLIDE CUT PARTIAL SLIDING MITER FENCE PUSH BACK Fig. 34 AUXILIARY FENCE MAKING AN AUXILIARY FENCE See Figure 35. 0 15 Depending on the size and position of the workpiece, certain FENCE 45 30 unusual cuts may benefit from the additional support that can SCREW be provided by an auxiliary fence. The holes provided in the miter fence are used to secure an auxiliary fence in place. NOTE: The auxiliary fence can only be used when the bevel is set at 0°. When making a bevel cut, the auxiliary fence MUST be removed. To attach the auxiliary fence to the saw: Loosen the fence screw and move the partial sliding miter fence toward the blade so both holes are visible. Place a 10 in. long piece of wood against the miter fence and aligned with the left edge of the miter table. NOTE: The appropriate height and thickness of the fence will vary based on the miter angle and the material being cut. ALIGN BOARD WITH EDGE OF MITER TABLE Fig. 35 Clamp the wood tightly against the fence and drive wood screws from the back of the fence through the two holes and into the auxiliary fence. If necessary, drill a pilot hole into wood first to prevent splitting. Remove clamp when finished. NOTE: Make sure the screws you use to attach the auxiliary fence do not pass through the front face of the fence, have a flat head to allow unrestricted movement of the partial sliding miter fence, and the length of the screws will not put them in the path of the blade at any angle. Return the partial sliding miter fence to its home position so it is no longer in the blade path. Make full left miter cut through the auxiliary fence. NOTE: Check for interference between the auxiliary fence and the lower blade guard. Correct any interference before proceeding. Repeat steps with second board by aligning with right side of miter table and making a full right miter cut through the auxiliary fence. 26 − English