Singer One Instruction Manual 3 - Page 37
Smoothing, Allowance, Fabrics
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DEEP-PILE FABRICS (Fake Fur) • Pin, rather than baste, seams. Place pins at close intervals at right angles to the seam line. Pins with colored heads are easy to see and remove. • Sew in direction of nap. • Stitch with a fairly long machine stitch(2,5to3mm)and use polyester/cotton thread in a size 90 or 100 Type 705 H needle. • As seam is stitched, smooth pile away from seam allowance with a darning needle or upholstery pin. • After stitching seams with a 1.5 cm seam allowance, use small hand scissors to shear pile from entire seam allowance to reduce bulk. • Stitch 6 mm pre-shrunk tape into neckline and shoulder seams for stability and reinforcement or stitch with the straight stretch stitch. • Leather and leather-look fabrics complement fur fabrics; use them for bound buttonholes and easy button loops. • Coat hems are less bulky if they are narrow and finished with a 8 cm fabric facing or grosgrain ribbon. • Slash through the center fold of darts and finger-press open, or stitch with a narrow zig-zag stitch and trim away excess fabric after stitching. Smoothing Pile away from Seam Allowance Deep-Pile Fabrics VELVET AND VELVETEENt • Use a light-pressure dial setting to prevent crushing pile. • Mark and baste with silk thread. • Use a Type 705 H, size 80 needle, and a fine thread for seaming. "A" silk or nylon thread is recommended for velvet. • Always stitch in the direction of the nap. • For unpuckered seams, pin or hand baste together and then stitch under light tension (see page 18). Extra-long, straight seams may be machine basted with a long, wide zig-zag stitch. • To sew panne velvet, use a ball-point needle and a shorter-than-normal stitch length (1.5 to 2 mm). 33