Maytag MEDB835DC W10240504 - Page 20
TEST #4b: Thermal Fuse, TEST #4c: Thermal Cut-Off, TEST #4d: Gas Valve Gas Dryer
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FOR SERVICE TECHNICIAN'S USE ONLY 4. Check P14-1 and P14-2 to dryer cabinet ground. If either pin indicates continuity to ground (short), replace wiring harness; otherwise, proceed to step 5. 5. If the preceding steps did not correct the problem, replace the ACU. TEST #4b: Thermal Fuse ELECTRIC DRYER: The thermal fuse is wired in series with the dryer drive motor. GAS DRYER: The thermal fuse is wired in series with the dryer gas valve. ALL DRYERS: 1. Unplug dryer or disconnect power. 2. Slide the top back, remove the front panel, front bulkhead, and drum to access the thermal fuse. 3. Using an ohmmeter, check the continuity across the thermal fuse. If the ohmmeter indicates an open circuit, replace the thermal fuse. TEST #4c: Thermal Cut-Off If the dryer does not produce heat, check the status of the thermal cut-off. 1. Unplug dryer or disconnect power. 2. Access the thermal cut-off by removing console, top panel, front panel, front bulkhead, and drum. 3. Using an ohmmeter, check the continuity across the thermal cut-off. See figures 10a and 10b, page 17, for location. 4. If the ohmmeter indicates an open circuit, perform the following: ALL DRYERS: Replace both the thermal cut-off and high limit thermostat. In addition, check for blocked or improper exhaust system, and, on electric dryers, for heat element malfunction. TEST #4d: Gas Valve (Gas Dryer) 1. Unplug dryer or disconnect power. 2. Access the gas valve by sliding the top back and removing the front panel, front bulkhead, and drum. 3. Use an ohmmeter to determine if a gas valve coil has malfunctioned. Remove harness plugs. Measure resistance across the terminals (see figure 11). Readings should match those shown in the following chart; if not, replace coils. GAS VALVE RESISTANCE Terminals 1 to 2 Resistance in ohms 1400 ± 70 1 to 3 570 ± 28.5 4 to 5 1300 ± 65 Black Light Blue White White Light Blue Figure 11 - Measuring gas valve resistance. 4. Disconnect the ignitor plug from the burner. Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance across the ignitor's 2-pin connector. Resistance should be 50-500 Ω. If resistance readings are outside the range or open, replace the ignitor. If resistance readings are within range, reconnect the ignitor plug and continue to step 5. 5. Disconnect the wires going to the flame sensor terminals. Using an ohmmeter, measure across the two sensor terminals for continuity. If there is continuity, reconnect the sensor wires and continue to step 6. If the reading is open, the flame sensor needs replacing. 6. Reassemble all parts and panels before reconnecting power. 7. Plug in dryer or reconnect power. 8. Run a high-temp TIMED DRY cycle (mixed/timed dry on Whirlpool) of at least 2 minutes in duration. 9. Watch the ignitor for a couple of minutes through the "peek window" in the side. If the ignitor stays red hot and the gas does not come out and ignite, the flame sensor needs replacing. NOTE: If ignitor does not come on, line voltage may not be present at the gas burner. The motor centrifugal switch may be suspect. PAGE 20 DO NOT REMOVE OR DESTROY
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