Celestron CPC Deluxe 800 HD Computerized Telescope CPC Deluxe HD Manual - Page 28

>> Eyepiece Projection This form of celestial photography is designed for objects with small angular sizes, primarily the Moon and planets. Planets, although physically quite large, appear small in angular size because of their great distances. Moderate to high magnification is, therefore, required to make the image large enough to see any detail. Unfortunately, the camera/telescope combination alone does not provide enough magnification to produce a usable image size on film. In order to get the image large enough, you must attach your camera to the telescope with the eyepiece in place. To do so, you need two additional accessories; a deluxe tele-extender (#93643), which attaches to the visual back and a T-ring for your particular camera make (i.e., Minolta, Nikon, Pentax, etc.). Because of the high magnifications during eyepiece projection, the field of view is quite small which makes it difficult to find and center objects. To make the job a little easier, align the finder as accurately as possible. This allows you to get the object in the telescope's field based on the finder's view alone. 35 mm SLR T-Ring Tele-Extender Eyepiece Visual Back FIGURE 8-3 Accessories for Projection Photography Another problem introduced by the high magnification is vibration. Simply tripping the shutter - even with a cable release - produces enough vibration to smear the image. To get around this, use the camera's selftimer if the exposure time is less than one second - a common occurrence when photographing the Moon. For exposures over one second, use the "hat trick." This technique incorporates a hand-held black card placed over the aperture of the telescope to act as a shutter. The card prevents light from entering the telescope while the shutter is released. Once the shutter has been released and the vibration has diminished (a few seconds), move the black card out of the way to expose the film. After the exposure is complete, place the card over the front of the telescope and close the shutter. Advance the film and you're ready for your next shot. Keep in mind that the card should be held a few inches in front of the telescope, and not touching it. It is easier if you use two people for this process; one to release the camera shutter and one to hold the card. Here's the process for making the exposure. 1. Find and center the desired target in the viewfinder of your camera. 2. Turn the focus knob until the image is as sharp as possible. 3. Place the black card over the front of the telescope. 4. Release the shutter using a cable release. 5. Wait for the vibration caused by releasing the shutter to diminish. Also, wait for a moment of good seeing. 6. Remove the black card from in front of the telescope for the duration of the exposure (see accompanying table). 7. Replace the black card over the front of the telescope. 8. Close the camera's shutter. 26 Advance the film and you are ready for your next exposure. Don't forget to take photos of varying duration and keep accurate records of what you have done. Record the date, telescope, exposure duration, eyepiece, f/ratio, film and some comments on the seeing conditions. The following table lists exposures for eyepiece projection with a 10 mm eyepiece. All exposure times are listed in seconds or fractions of a second. Planet Moon Mercury Venus Mars Jupiter Saturn ISO 50 4 16 1/2 16 8 16 ISO 100 2 8 1/4 8 4 8 ISO 200 1 4 1/8 4 2 4 ISO 400 1/2 2 1/15 2 1 2 FIGURE 8-4 Recommended exposure time for photographing planets. The exposure times listed here should be used as a starting point. Always make exposures that are longer and shorter than the recommended time. Also, take a few photos at each shutter speed. This will ensure that you get a good photo. It is not uncommon to go through an entire roll of 36 exposures and have only one good shot. NOTE: Don't expect to record more detail than you can see visually in the eyepiece at the time you are photographing. Once you have mastered the technique, experiment with different films, different focal length eyepieces and even different filters. >> Long Exposure Prime Focus Photography This is the last form of celestial photography to be attempted after others have been mastered. It is intended primarily for deep sky objects that are objects outside our solar system which includes star clusters, nebulae and galaxies. While it may seem that high magnification is required for these objects, just the opposite is true. Most of these objects cover large angular areas and fit nicely into the prime focus field of your telescope. The brightness of these objects, however, requires long exposure times and, as a result, are rather difficult to photograph. There are several techniques for this type of photography, and the one chosen will determine the standard accessories needed. The best method for long exposure deep sky astrophotography is with an off-axis guider. This device allows you to photograph and guide through the telescope simultaneously. Celestron offers a very special and advanced off-axis guider, called the Radial Guider (#94176). In addition, you will need a T-Ring to attach your camera to the Radial Guider. Other equipment needs include a guiding eyepiece. Unlike other forms of astrophotography which allows for fairly loose guiding, prime focus requires meticulous guiding for long periods. To accomplish this you need a guiding ocular with an illuminated reticle to monitor your guide star. For this purpose, Celestron offers the Micro Guide Eyepiece (#94171). Here is a brief summary of the technique. 1. Polar align the telescope using an optional equatorial wedge. To polar align the CPC you must select EQ North Align (or EO South Align) from the alignment options. For more information on polar aligning, see the Polar Alignment section earlier in the manual. 2. Remove all visual accessories. 3. Thread the Radial Guider onto your telescope. 4. Thread the T-Ring onto the Radial Guider. >> www.celestron.com