Bernina Bernette 20 Operation Manual - Page 6

Thread To achieve quality stitches, a sewing machine needs three things: correct thread, correct size needle, and properly adjusted thread tensions. Poor quality or the wrong type of thread can cause inferior stitches on any machine. Inferior thread results in crooked and looped stitches, puckered seams, frayed thread, and/or needle breakage. Did you know that thread passes through the eye of the needle approximately 37 times in a "seesaw" action before it forms a single stitch? Long staple threads are stronger and smoother than short staple threads. (Staple refers to the length of fibers used to twist together to form a single ply). Most bargain-priced threads are usually short staple and will deposit more lint and fuzz into your sewing machine, potentially causing tension inconsistencies and possibly even damage to your machine over the long term. Using long staple threads also result in less snagging and fraying as you sew. Ply refers to the number of strands twisted together to make a single thread. The number of plies are usually indicated by a number after the weight of the thread such as 50/3, which means a 3-ply, 50-wt. thread. The lower the weight, the heavier the thread; conversely, higher numbers indicate fine or lightweight thread. Guidelines for Thread Weights 12 wt.- Couching, bobbinwork 30 wt.- Embroidery, bobbinwork 40 wt.- General construction, quilting, embroidery 50 wt.- General construction, piecing, bobbin thread 60 wt.- Lingerie, heirloom, appliqué, bobbin thread 80 wt.- Extra-fine lingerie, heirloom Fibers Fiber refers to the type of material used to produce the thread. Polyester Good for clothing construction on man-made, natural or blended fabrics. Tolerates high temperatures. Polyester embroidery thread has a high sheen; excellent for embroidery, very abrasion resistant. Cotton 2 ply Mettler 60/2; excellent for French heirloom stitching, delicate machine embroidery, piecing and darning. Mettler 30/2; loose twist for a soft, shiny look in machine embroidery, appliqué, and buttonholes. Mettler 50/2; excellent for clothing construction on natural fibers. Tighter twist than embroidery cotton thread and less puckering on problem fabrics. Cotton thread stretches less than polyester. Rayon A lustrous embroidery thread; weaker than cotton, it is used for decorative work only. Silk Used on silk and wool fabrics, this strong, lustrous fiber is good for construction and decorative details such as buttonholes. Also used for quilting as it blends into the fabric. The exercises in this workbook are designed to be sewn with Mettler thread. Use one of the following in any color of medium value: • Metrosene Polyester • Silk-finished 50-wt. cotton 12/13/10 6