Dewalt DW715 Instruction Manual - Page 13

INSIDE CORNER: Left side 1. Miter left 45° 2. Save left side of cut Right side 1. Miter Right 45° 2. Save right side of cut OUTSIDE CORNER: Left side 1. Miter right at 45° 2. Save left side of cut Right side 1. Miter left at 45° 2. Save right side of cut Material up to 3-5/8" (91mm) can be cut as described above. For boards [up to 6-3/4" (173mm)] several minor concessions must be made: When cutting a board between 3-5/8" (91mm) and 6-3/4" (173mm), the roller on the tip of the guard will hang up on the workpiece. If this occurs, simply place your right thumb on the upper side of the guard and roll the guard up just enough to clear the workpiece, as shown in Figure 16. Once you have cleared the workpiece, you can release the guard and it will continue to open as the cut progresses. When mitering to the right side of a base molding 3-5/8" (91mm) standing vertically against the fence as in Figure 15, the saw can only cut through the board up to 1" (25.4mm) from the end of the board. Trying to cut more than an inch will cause the saw's gear case to interfere with the workpiece. If you want to cut base molding between 3-5/8" (91mm) and 6-3/4" (173mm) vertically follow the directions on this page. CUTTING BASE MOLDING UP TO 1" (25.4mm) THICK BY 3-5/8"- 6-3/4" (91 x 173mm) WIDE 1" (25.4mm) VERTICALLY AGAINST THE FENCE • Position molding as shown in Figure 15 • All cuts made with the back of the molding against the fence INSIDE CORNER: Left side 1. Position molding with bottom of molding against the base of the saw 2. Miter left 45° 3. Save left side of cut Right side 1. Position molding with top of the molding resting on the base of the saw 2. Miter left 45° 3. Save left side of cut OUTSIDE CORNER: Left side 1. Position molding with bottom of molding against the base of the saw FIG. 15 FIG. 16 PARLWOPAYERSLAYDBJEUFSOTRFEEUNSCEE FIG. 17 11 2. Miter right 45° 3. Save left side of cut NOTE: If the cut must be made somewhere other than 1" from the end of the molding: cut off the molding at 90° approx. 1" (25.4mm) longer than your final length then make the miter cut as described above. Right side 1. Position molding with bottom of the molding against the base of the saw 2. Miter left 45° 3. Save the right side of cut CUTTING BASE MOLDING UP TO 1.8" (45mm) THICK BY UP TO 7-11/16" (195.6mm) WIDE LAYING FLAT AND USING THE BEVEL FEATURE • All cuts made with the saw set at 45° bevel and 0 miter • All cuts made with back of molding laying flat on the saw as shown in Figure 17 INSIDE CORNER: Left side 1. Position molding with top of molding against the fence 2. Save left side of cut Right side 1. Position molding with bottom of the molding against the fence 2. Save left side of cut OUTSIDE CORNER: Left side 1. Position molding with bottom of the molding against the fence 2. Save right side of cut Right side 1. Position molding with top of molding against the fence 2. Save right side of cut CUTTING CROWN MOLDING Your miter saw is better suited to the task of cutting crown molding than any tool made. In order to fit properly, crown molding must be compound mitered with extreme accuracy. The two flat surfaces on a given piece of crown molding are at angles that, when added together, equal exactly 90 degrees. Most, but not all, crown molding has a top rear angle (the section that fits flat against the ceiling) of 52 degrees and a bottom rear angle (the part that fits flat against the wall) of 38 degrees. Your miter saw has special pre-set miter latch points at 31.62 degrees left and right for cutting crown molding at the proper angle and bevel stop pawl at 33.85˚ left. There is also a mark on the bevel scale at 33.85 degrees. The chart on page 12 gives the proper settings for cutting crown molding. (The numbers for the miter and bevel settings are very precise and are not easy to accurately set English