Kenmore 7975 Use and Care Guide - Page 32

Understanding, Sounds, Refrigerator, Not Operate, Vibration, Or Rattling, Noise, Lights, Do Not Work

Page 32 highlights

UNDERSTANDING SOUNDS YOU MAY HEAR Your new refrigerator may make sounds that your old one didn't make. Because the sounds are new to you, you might be concerned about them. Most of the new sounds are normal. Hard surfaces, like the floor, walls and cabinets, can make the sounds seem louder than they actually are. The following describes the kinds of sounds and what may be making them. • The defrost timer will click when the automatic defrost cycle begins and ends. The thermostat control (or refrigerator control, depending on the model) will also click when cycling on and off. • Rattling noises may come from the flow of refrigerant, the water line, or items stored on top of the refrigerator. • Your refrigerator is designed to run more efficiently to keep your food items at the desired temperature. The high efficiency compressor may cause your new refrigerator to run longer than your old one, and you may hear a pulsating or high-pitched sound. • You may hear the evaporator fan motor circulating the air through the refrigerator and freezer compartments. • As each cycle ends, you may hear a gurgling sound due to the refrigerant flowing in your refrigerator. • Contraction and expansion of the inside walls may cause a popping noise. • Water dripping on the defrost heater during a defrost cycle may cause a sizzling sound. • You may hear air being forced over the condenser by the condenser fan. REFRIGERATOR DOES NOT OPERATE • You may hear water running into the drain pan during the defrost cycle. • You can hear the noise occurred from the icing fan at the freezer or the left side of the refrigerator when doors are open. Check if... Then... The power supply cord is unplugged. A household fuse has blown or circuit breaker tripped. The refrigerator control is set to the OFF position. Refrigerator is in the defrost cycle. Firmly plug the cord into a live outlet with proper voltage. Replace the fuse or reset the circuit breaker. Refer to the Setting the Controls section on page 16. Wait about 30 minutes for defrost cycle to end. VIBRATION OR RATTLING NOISE Check if... The refrigerator is not resting solidly on the floor. Then... Floor is weak or uneven or leveling legs need adjusting. See Installation section on page 8 and 15. LIGHTS DO NOT WORK Check if... Then... The power supply cord is unplugged. Light bulb is loose in the socket. Light bulb has burned out. Firmly plug the cord into a live outlet with proper voltage. Turn the refrigerator control to the OFF position and unplug the refrigerator. Gently remove the bulb and reinsert. Then plug in refrigerator and reset the refrigerator control. Replace with an appliance bulb of the same wattage, size and shape available at your local hardware store. (See the Changing the Light Bulb(s) section on pages 25-26.) Turn the temperature control to the OFF position and unplug the refrigerator prior to replacement. 32

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UNDERSTANDING
SOUNDS
YOU
MAY
HEAR
Your new refrigerator
may make sounds that your old one
didn't make. Because
the sounds are new to you, you
might be concerned
about them. Most of the new sounds
are normal. Hard surfaces,
like the floor, walls and
cabinets,
can make the sounds seem louder than they
actually are. The following
describes the kinds of sounds
and what may be making them.
• The defrost timer will click when the automatic
defrost
cycle begins and ends. The thermostat
control (or
refrigerator
control, depending
on the model) will also
click when cycling
on and off.
• Rattling noises may come from the flow of refrigerant,
the water line, or items stored on top of the refrigerator.
• Your refrigerator
is designed to run more efficiently to
keep your food items at the desired temperature.
The high efficiency compressor
may cause your new
refrigerator
to run longer than your old one, and you may
hear a pulsating or high-pitched
sound.
• You may hear the evaporator
fan motor circulating the
air through the refrigerator
and freezer compartments.
• As each cycle ends, you may hear a gurgling sound due
to the refrigerant
flowing in your refrigerator.
• Contraction
and expansion
of the inside walls may cause
a popping
noise.
• Water dripping on the defrost heater during a defrost
cycle may cause a sizzling sound.
• You may hear air being forced over the condenser
by
the condenser
fan.
• You may hear water running into the drain pan during
the defrost cycle.
• You can hear the noise occurred from the icing fan at the
freezer or the left side of the refrigerator
when doors are
open.
REFRIGERATOR
DOES
NOT OPERATE
Check if...
Then...
The power supply cord is unplugged.
Firmly plug the cord into a live outlet with proper voltage.
A household
fuse has blown or circuit breaker
Replace the fuse or reset the circuit breaker.
tripped.
The refrigerator
control is set to the OFF position.
Refer to the Setting
the Controls
section on page 16.
Refrigerator
is in the defrost cycle.
Wait about 30 minutes for defrost cycle to end.
VIBRATION
OR RATTLING
NOISE
Check if...
Then...
The refrigerator
is not resting solidly on
Floor is weak or uneven or leveling legs need adjusting.
the floor.
See Installation
section on page 8 and 15.
LIGHTS
DO NOT WORK
Check if...
Then...
The power supply cord is unplugged.
Firmly plug the cord into a live outlet with proper voltage.
Light bulb is loose in the socket.
Turn the refrigerator
control to the OFF position and unplug
the refrigerator.
Gently remove the bulb and reinsert. Then
plug in refrigerator
and reset the refrigerator
control.
Light bulb has burned out.
Replace with an appliance
bulb of the same wattage,
size and
shape available at your local hardware store. (See the
Changing
the Light
Bulb(s)
section on pages 25-26.) Turn
the temperature
control to the OFF position and unplug the
refrigerator
prior to replacement.
32