Singer One Instruction Manual 3 - Page 37

Smoothing, Allowance, Fabrics

Page 37 highlights

DEEP-PILE FABRICS (Fake Fur) • Pin, rather than baste, seams. Place pins at close intervals at right angles to the seam line. Pins with colored heads are easy to see and remove. • Sew in direction of nap. • Stitch with a fairly long machine stitch(2,5to3mm)and use polyester/cotton thread in a size 90 or 100 Type 705 H needle. • As seam is stitched, smooth pile away from seam allowance with a darning needle or upholstery pin. • After stitching seams with a 1.5 cm seam allowance, use small hand scissors to shear pile from entire seam allowance to reduce bulk. • Stitch 6 mm pre-shrunk tape into neckline and shoulder seams for stability and reinforcement or stitch with the straight stretch stitch. • Leather and leather-look fabrics complement fur fabrics; use them for bound buttonholes and easy button loops. • Coat hems are less bulky if they are narrow and finished with a 8 cm fabric facing or grosgrain ribbon. • Slash through the center fold of darts and finger-press open, or stitch with a narrow zig-zag stitch and trim away excess fabric after stitching. Smoothing Pile away from Seam Allowance Deep-Pile Fabrics VELVET AND VELVETEENt • Use a light-pressure dial setting to prevent crushing pile. • Mark and baste with silk thread. • Use a Type 705 H, size 80 needle, and a fine thread for seaming. "A" silk or nylon thread is recommended for velvet. • Always stitch in the direction of the nap. • For unpuckered seams, pin or hand baste together and then stitch under light tension (see page 18). Extra-long, straight seams may be machine basted with a long, wide zig-zag stitch. • To sew panne velvet, use a ball-point needle and a shorter-than-normal stitch length (1.5 to 2 mm). 33

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DEEP
-PILE
FABRICS
(Fake
Fur)
Pin,
rather
than
baste,
seams.
Place
pins
at
close
intervals
at
right
angles
to
the
seam
line.
Pins
with
colored
heads
are
easy
to
see
and
remove.
Sew
in
direction
of
nap.
Stitch
with
a
fairly
long
machine
stitch
(2,5to
3
mm)and
use
polyester/
-
cotton
thread
in
a
size
90
or
100
Type
705
H
needle.
As
seam
is
stitched,
smooth
pile
away
from
seam
allowance
with
a
darning
needle
or
upholstery
pin.
After
stitching
seams
with
a
1.5
cm
seam
allowance,
use
small
hand
scissors
to
shear
pile
from
entire
se-
am
allowance
to
reduce
bulk.
Stitch
6
mm
pre-shrunk
tape
into
neckline
and
shoulder
seams
for
sta-
bility
and
reinforcement
or
stitch
with
the
straight
stretch
stitch.
Leather
and
leather
-look
fabrics
com-
plement
fur
fabrics;
use
them
for
bound
buttonholes
and
easy
button
loops.
Coat
hems
are
less
bulky
if
they
are
narrow
and
finished
with
a
8
cm
fa-
bric
facing
or
grosgrain
ribbon.
Slash
through
the
center
fold
of
darts
and
finger
-press
open,
or
stitch
with
a
narrow
zig-zag
stitch
and
trim
away
excess
fabric
after
stitching.
Smoothing
Pile
away
from
Seam
Allowance
Deep
-Pile
Fabrics
VELVET
AND
VELVETEENt
Use
a
light
-pressure
dial
setting
to
prevent
crushing
pile.
Mark
and
baste
with
silk
thread.
Use
a
Type
705
H,
size
80
needle,
and
a
fine
thread
for
seaming.
"A"
silk
or
nylon
thread
is
recommended
for
velvet.
Always
stitch
in
the
direction
of
the
nap.
For
unpuckered
seams,
pin
or
hand
baste
together
and
then
stitch
under
light
tension
(see
page
18).
Extra
-long,
straight
seams
may
be
machine
basted
with
a
long,
wide
zig-zag
stitch.
To
sew
panne
velvet,
use
a
ball-point
needle
and
a
shorter
-than
-normal
stitch
length
(1.5
to
2
mm).
33