Brother International EF4-B561 Service Manual - Page 33

Broadcloth

Page 33 highlights

3. DOUBLE-NEEDLE, FOUR THREADS No. 1 Double needle four threads 2 Cloth Knit unddewrweeaarr material Thin knitwork 3 Bulky material Thread Cotton #60/2 Synthetic #60 Needle: Synthetic #60 Looper: Woolen Mock safety 4 Broadcloth 5 Jersey Cotton #80 Polyester #50 Needle size Differential ratio Stitch length # 9 1 --1.5 2 - 2.5 #11 # 14 1-- 2 2 .s. 3 PI 2.2 --2.8 #11 0.8 ^-1 #14 1.5 -- 2 2 -2.5 2.5 - 3 No. Left needle Right needle Over looper Under looper thread tension thread tension thread tension thread tension 1 Double-needle four threads 2 3 60 ^- 80 40 -.60 70^90 30 -- 50 25 ,*- 45 35^55 6 -- 18 4 ~16 3 ., 10 8 ^- 20 6 .- 18 5 ..- 15 4 Mock safety 5 50 -- 80 50 -70 45 -- 70 25 ~50 8 -- 15 10 .- 20 8^-15 8-18 Note on Item 1: Cotton threads in the range of #60/2 to #70/2 are weak so that the thread tension must be reduced as much as possible. A poor quality thread tends to break. In that case, do not tighten the needle thread tension but adjust the positions of the thread take-up and thread guide if the thread tension must be increased. Note on Item 2: About the same tension may be used for sewing with synthetic and cotton threads. Note on Item 3: Make the same adjustment as mentioned in Item 5 for three threads. Note on Item 4: If the over looper thread tension is too small, double-needle four-thread stitches may sometimes be made. In such a case, raise the over looper thread take-up (R) to decrease thread delivery. Note on Item 5: When sewing jersey with chemical thread, it may break due to heat. A DOUBLE-NEEDLE, FIVE THREADS (Safety Stitches Only) No. Cloth 1 Broad cloth 2 Broad cloth 3 Jersey 4 Gaberdine 5 Denim Thread Cotton #80 Polyester #80 Needle: Polyester #50 Looper: Wooly nylon Cotton #50 Cotton #50 Needle size #11 II #14 #16 #21 r Differential ratio 0.8 -.1 ll 1.5 --, 2 1 II No. Double chain stitch Double chain stitch needle thread tension looper thread tension 1 20 "- 50 5 -- 15 2 15^p 45 5-t0 3 25^ 60 8 --, 20 4 35^ 60 , 6 .- 15 5 80 ...- 110 10 .- 20 Over needle thread tension 40.- 90 30- 80 25^- 50 50 -- 100 70 "- 150 Over looper thread tension 10.- 25 8-20 5 --. 15 7 -- 20 10 -- 25 Raise Stitch length 2-- 2.5 II 2.2- 2.8 2.5 -3 II Under looper thread tension 8 - 20 5-1S 8 •", 20 10 -- 30 15 ^30 -31 -

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3.
DOUBLE
-NEEDLE,
FOUR
THREADS
No.
Cloth
Thread
Needle
size
Differential
ratio
Stitch
length
Double
needle
four
threads
1
underwear
Knit
dwear
material
Cotton
#60/2
#
9
1
--
1.5
2
2.5
2
Thin
knitwork
Synthetic
#60
#11
-
1
-
2
PI
3
Bulky
material
Needle:
Synthetic
#60
Looper:
Woolen
#
14
2
.s.
3
2.2
--2.8
Mock
safety
4
5
Broadcloth
Jersey
Cotton
#80
Polyester
#50
#11
#14
0.8
^-1
1.5
--
2
2
—2.5
2.5
3
No.
Left
needle
thread
tension
Right
needle
thread
tension
Over
looper
thread
tension
Under
looper
thread
tension
1
60
^—
80
30
--
50
6
--
18
8
^-
20
Double
-needle
four
threads
2
40
-.60
25
,*-
45
4
~16
6
.-
18
3
70^90
35^55
3
.,
10
5
..-
15
4
50
--
80
45
--
70
8
--
15
8^-15
Mock
safety
5
50
—70
25
~50
10
.—
20
8-18
Note
on
Item
1:
Cotton
threads
in
the
range
of
#60/2
to
#70/2
are
weak
so
that
the
thread
tension
must
be
reduced
as
much
as
possible.
A
poor
quality
thread
tends
to
break.
In
that
case,
do
not
tighten
the
needle
thread
tension
but
adjust
the
positions
of
the
thread
take-up
and
thread
guide
if
the
thread
tension
must
be
increased.
Note
on
Item
2:
About
the
same
tension
may
be
used
for
sewing
with
synthetic
and
cotton
threads.
Note
on
Item
3:
Make
the
same
adjustment
as
mentioned
in
Item
5
for
three
threads.
Note
on
Item
4:
If
the
over
looper
thread
tension
is
too
small,
double
-needle
four
-thread
stitches
may
sometimes
be
made.
In
such
a
case,
raise
the
over
looper
thread
take-up
(R)
to
decrease
thread
delivery.
Note
on
Item
5:
When
sewing
jersey
with
chemical
thread,
it
may
break
due
to
heat.
A
DOUBLE
-NEEDLE,
FIVE
THREADS
(Safety
Stitches
Only)
Raise
No.
Cloth
Thread
Needle
size
r
Differential
ratio
Stitch
length
1
Broad
cloth
Cotton
#80
#11
0.8
—.1
2--
2.5
2
Broad
cloth
Polyester
#80
II
ll
II
3
Jersey
Needle:
Polyester
#50
Looper:
Wooly
nylon
#14
1.5
--,
2
2.2—
2.8
4
Gaberdine
Cotton
#50
#16
1
2.5
—3
5
Denim
Cotton
#50
#21
II
II
No.
Double
chain
stitch
needle
thread
tension
Double
chain
stitch
looper
thread
tension
Over
needle
thread
tension
Over
looper
thread
tension
Under
looper
thread
tension
1
20
"-
50
5
--
15
40.—
90
10.-
25
8
-
20
2
15^p
45
5-t0
30-
80
8-20
5-1S
3
25^
60
8
--,
20
25^-
50
5
--.
15
8
•",
20
4
35^
60
,
6
.-
15
50
--
100
7
--
20
10
--
30
5
80
...-
110
10
.-
20
70
"-
150
10
--
25
15
^30
-31
-