Brother International Innov-is NS80e Operation Manual - Page 21

Fabric/Thread/Needle Combinations Fabric/Thread/Needle Combinations • Needles that can be used with this machine: Home sewing machine needles (size 65/9 - 100/16) * The larger the number, the larger the needle. As the numbers decrease, the needles get finer. • Thread that can be used with this machine: 30 - 90 weight * Never use thread of 20 weight or lower. It may cause machine to malfunction. * The smaller the number, the heavier the thread. As the numbers increase, the thread gets finer. • The machine needle and thread that should be used depends on the type and thickness of the fabric. Refer to the following table when choosing the thread and needle appropriate for the fabric that you wish to sew. - The combinations shown in the table provide a general guideline. Be sure to sew trial stitches on the actual number of layers and type of fabric to be used in your project. - The machine needles are consumables. For safety and best results, we recommend replacing the needle regularly. For details on when to replace the needle, refer to "Checking the needle" on page 20. • In principle, use a fine needle and thread with lightweight fabrics, and a larger needle and heavier thread with heavyweight fabrics. • Select a stitch appropriate for the fabric, and then adjust the stitch length. When sewing lightweight fabrics, make the stitch length finer (shorter). When sewing heavyweight fabrics, make the stitch length coarser (longer). (page 27) When sewing stretch fabrics, refer to "Sewing stretch fabrics" on page 31. GETTING READY 1 Fabric Type/Application Lightweight fabrics Lawn, georgette, challis, organdy, crepe, chiffon, voile, gauze, tulle, lining, etc. Medium weight fabrics Heavyweight fabrics Broadcloth, taffeta, gabardine, flannel, seersucker, double gauze, linen, terry cloth, waffle weave, sheeting, poplin, cotton twill, satin, quilting cotton, etc. Denim (12 ounces or more), canvas, etc. Denim (12 ounces or more), canvas, tweed, corduroy, velour, melton wool, vinyl-coated fabric, etc. Stretch fabrics Jersey, tricot, T-shirt fabric, fleece, (knit fabrics, etc.) interlock, etc. For top-stitching Thread Type Polyester thread Cotton thread, Silk thread Polyester thread Cotton thread, Silk thread Polyester thread, Cotton thread Polyester thread Cotton thread, Silk thread Polyester thread, Cotton thread, Silk thread Polyester thread, Cotton thread Weight 60 - 90 50 - 80 60 - 90 50 - 60 30 60 30 - 50 50 30 50 - 60 Size of needle 65/9 - 75/11 75/11 - 90/14 100/16 90/14 - 100/16 Stitch length mm (inch) Fine stitches 1.8-2.5 (1/16-3/32) Regular stitches 2.0-3.0 (1/16-1/8) Coarse stitches 2.5-4.0 (3/32-3/16) Ball point needle 75/11 - 90/14 90/14 - 100/16 75/11 - 90/14 Setting appropriate for the fabric thickness Setting appropriate for the fabric thickness ■ Transparent nylon thread Use a home sewing machine topstitching needle, regardless of the fabric or thread. ■ Sewing decorative stitch patterns (needles and threads) When sewing lightweight, medium weight or stretch fabrics, use a ball point needle (gold colored) 90/14. When sewing heavyweight fabrics, use a home sewing machine needle 90/14. In addition, #50 to #60 thread should be used. CAUTION • The appropriate fabric, thread and needle combinations are shown in the preceding table. If the combination of the fabric, thread and needle is not correct, particularly when sewing heavy fabrics (such as denim) with thin needles (such as 65/9 to 75/11), the needle may bend or break. In addition, the stitching may be uneven or puckered or there may be skipped stitches. 19