Troy-Bilt Horse Tiller Technical Manual - Page 35

Removing, Rusted, Wheel, Shaft, Without, Disassembling, Transmission

Page 35 highlights

SECTION 7: Special Repairs and Procedures PTO HORSE MODEL TECHNICAL MANUAL Page 7-2 4/90 dog clutch in the center of the hole. 5. Apply a thin coating of grease to the socket head screw (12) on the eccentric shaft assembly. Then insert the assembly into the hole. Hold the assembly so that the socket head screw is at 12 o'clock. 6. Using your fingers only, gently thread the eccentric shaft hex nut/bushing (7) until the hex nut is snug against the power unit housing. The hex nut/bushing should turn freely at all times until the nut is against the housing. Do not use force; you can damage the eccentric shaft or socket head screw. If necessary, back the nut off a few turns and rotate the eccentric shaft a fraction of a turn. Then try to thread the nut inward again. 7. Make sure that you have properly seated the screw head in the clutch groove. Rotate the eccentric shaft back and forth while looking through the rear of housing. The screw is properly seated if the clutch moves back and forth with each turn of the eccentric shaft. 8. Tighten the hex nut/bushing securely with a wrench. 9. Fill the dog clutch cavity with grease. Stop where the housing bore widens to accept the tiller attachment sleeve. 10. Attach the clutch lever (3) and finger tighten the bolt (6) that holds the clutch lever. 11. Install the detent plate (5) and loosely install the two bolts (4) that hold the detent plate; do not tighten the bolts yet. 12. Install the clutch lever knob (2) and the bolt (1) on the clutch lever. 13. Move the lever until it is inside one of the two detent slots cut into the detent plate. Then tighten the bolt that holds the lever. A correctly installed lever will have to be pulled out before being able to slide it over to the other detent stop. 14. With the lever in the ENGAGE position, slide the detent plate to the rear of the housing against the lever until it can go no further. Move the plate forward 1/16 of an inch and tighten the two detent-plate mounting screws. You should feel some lever play in either the ENGAGE or DISENGAGE position. Removing a Rusted Wheel If you need to remove the wheel shaft and the left wheel or both wheels are rusted to the shaft, follow these instructions. If only the right wheel is rusted to the wheel shaft, you can still remove the wheel shaft by following the instructions in Section 5 of this manual. Once the wheel shaft is off you can soak the rusted wheel(s) in a penetrating lubricant until you can remove it. 1. Remove the roll pin that holds the wheel to the wheel shaft. If the pin does not come out smoothly, tap it out using another pin as a driver. It is important to use a pin that is the same size. 2. Remove the hubcap. 3. Spray a penetrating lubricant into the wheel hub and let it soak. 4. Raise the wheels off the ground and leave them suspended in the air. 5. Insert an old wheel shaft into the hub until it butts against the tiller's wheel shaft. Then, using the old shaft as a driver, strike the end of the old shaft with a hammer. Note: Only strike a few times and not very hard. You do not want to run the risk of popping the snap ring out of its groove. Doing so will make it very difficult to remove the wheel. 6. If you are successful, the wheel will begin to vibrate off the wheel shaft. 7. If you are not successful, you will have to saw the rusted wheel off. Then, the wheel shaft can be removed by following the instructions in Section 5 of this manual. Note: Soak the rim of the sawedoff wheel in lubricant overnight. Then use an arbor press to remove the shaft from the wheel. Removing the Wheel Shaft Without Disassembling the Transmission This wheel shaft removal and replacement method may take some practice before you are truly proficient, but it can save you time in removing, inspecting and replacing a wheel shaft because you do not have to separate the transmission from the tiller or disassemble the transmission. See Figure 7-2 as a reference for the part numbers in this section. Removal 1. Remove the oil drain plug and drain the transmission gear oil. Inspect the plug and if it is not damaged, replace it after the oil is drained. 2. Remove both wheels. See the Owner/Operator Manual for Instructions. Note: If a wheel is rusted to the shaft, see "Removing a Rusted Wheel" in this section. 35"

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SECTION
7:
Special
Repairs
and
Procedures
PTO
HORSE
MODEL
TECHNICAL
MANUAL
Page
7-2
4/90
dog
clutch
in
the
center
of
the
hole.
5.
Apply
a
thin
coating
of
grease
to
the
socket
head
screw
(12)
on
the
eccentric
shaft
assembly.
Then
insert
the
assembly
into
the
hole.
Hold
the
assembly
so
that
the
socket
head
screw
is
at
12
o'clock.
6.
Using
your
fingers
only,
gently
thread
the
eccentric
shaft
hex
nut/
-
bushing
(7)
until
the
hex
nut
is
snug
against
the
power
unit
housing.
The
hex
nut/bushing
should
turn
freely
at
all
times
until
the
nut
is
against
the
housing.
Do
not
use
force;
you
can
damage
the
eccen-
tric
shaft
or
socket
head
screw.
If
necessary,
back
the
nut
off
a
few
turns
and
rotate
the
eccentric
shaft
a
fraction
of
a
turn.
Then
try
to
thread
the
nut
inward
again.
7.
Make
sure
that
you
have
properly
seated
the
screw
head
in
the
clutch
groove.
Rotate
the
eccentric
shaft
back
and
forth
while
looking
through
the
rear
of
housing.
The
screw
is
properly
seated
if
the
clutch
moves
back
and
forth
with
each
turn
of
the
eccentric
shaft.
8.
Tighten
the
hex
nut/bushing
securely
with
a
wrench.
9.
Fill
the
dog
clutch
cavity
with
grease.
Stop
where
the
housing
bore
widens
to
accept
the
tiller
attachment
sleeve.
10.
Attach
the
clutch
lever
(3)
and
finger
tighten
the
bolt
(6)
that
holds
the
clutch
lever.
11.
Install
the
detent
plate
(5)
and
loosely
install
the
two
bolts
(4)
that
hold
the
detent
plate;
do
not
tighten
the
bolts
yet.
12.
Install
the
clutch
lever
knob
(2)
and
the
bolt
(1)
on
the
clutch
lever.
13.
Move
the
lever
until
it
is
inside
one
of
the
two
detent
slots
cut
into
the
detent
plate.
Then
tighten
the
bolt
that
holds
the
lever.
A
correctly
installed
lever
will
have
to
be
pulled
out
before
being
able
to
slide
it
over
to
the
other
detent
stop.
14.
With
the
lever
in
the
ENGAGE
position,
slide
the
detent
plate
to
the
rear
of
the
housing
against
the
lever
until
it
can
go
no
further.
Move
the plate
forward
1/16
of
an
inch
and
tighten
the
two
detent-plate
mounting
screws.
You
should
feel
some
lever
play
in
either
the
ENGAGE
or
DISEN-
GAGE
position.
Removing
a
Rusted
Wheel
If
you
need
to
remove
the
wheel
shaft
and
the
left
wheel
or
both
wheels
are
rusted
to
the
shaft,
fol-
low
these
instructions.
If
only
the
right
wheel
is
rusted
to
the
wheel
shaft,
you
can
still
remove
the
wheel
shaft
by
following
the
instructions
in
Section
5
of
this
manual.
Once
the
wheel
shaft
is
off
you
can
soak
the
rusted
wheel(s)
in
a
penetrating
lubricant
until
you
can
remove
it.
1.
Remove
the
roll
pin
that
holds
the
wheel
to
the
wheel
shaft.
If
the
pin
does
not
come
out
smoothly,
tap
it
out
using
another
pin
as
a
driver.
It
is
important
to
use
a
pin
that
is
the
same
size.
2.
Remove
the
hubcap.
3.
Spray
a
penetrating
lubricant
into
the
wheel
hub
and
let
it
soak.
4.
Raise
the
wheels
off
the
ground
and
leave
them
suspended
in
the
air.
5.
Insert
an
old
wheel
shaft
into
the
hub
until
it
butts
against
the
tiller's
wheel
shaft.
Then,
using
the
old
shaft
as
a
driver,
strike
the
end
of
the
old
shaft
with
a
hammer.
Note:
Only
strike
a
few
times
and
not
very
hard.
You
do
not
want
to
run
the
risk
of
popping
the
snap
ring
out
of
its
groove.
Doing
so
will
make
it
very
difficult
to
remove
the
wheel.
6.
If
you
are
successful,
the
wheel
will
begin
to
vibrate
off
the
wheel
shaft.
7.
If
you
are
not
successful,
you
will
have
to
saw
the
rusted
wheel
off.
Then,
the
wheel
shaft
can
be
removed
by
following
the
instruc-
tions
in
Section
5
of
this
manual.
Note:
Soak
the
rim
of
the
sawed-
off
wheel
in
lubricant
overnight.
Then
use
an
arbor
press
to
remove
the
shaft
from
the
wheel.
Removing
the
Wheel
Shaft
Without
Disassembling
the
Transmission
This
wheel
shaft
removal
and
replacement
method
may
take
some
practice
before
you
are
truly
proficient,
but
it
can
save
you
time
in
removing,
inspecting
and
replacing
a
wheel
shaft
because
you
do
not
have
to
separate
the
transmission
from
the
tiller
or
dis-
assemble
the
transmission.
See
Figure
7-2
as
a
reference
for
the
part
numbers
in
this
section.
Removal
1.
Remove
the
oil
drain
plug
and
drain
the
transmission
gear
oil.
Inspect
the
plug
and
if
it
is
not
damaged,
replace
it
after
the
oil
is
drained.
2.
Remove
both
wheels.
See
the
Owner/Operator
Manual
for
Instructions.
Note:
If
a
wheel
is
rusted
to
the
shaft,
see
"Removing
a
Rusted
Wheel"
in
this
section.
35"