Brother International BES-100E BE-100 Workbook - English - Page 110

Fabric/Garment Coated or waterproofed fabrics Needle 80/12 sharp or light ball point Teflon No. of Backing Pieces 1 tearaway Corduroy 75/11 light ball point 1 tearaway Lingerie or silk 70/10 light ball point 1 or 2 lightweight tearaway Lycra (or spandex) 70/10 medium ball point 1 cutaway Headwear 75/11 or 80/12 Optional Leather and vinyl 75/11 or 80/12 light ball point on stiff or spongy leather. 70/10 or 80/12 sharp on soft, supple garment leathers 1 gummeddown Kraft paper tape Taken from Stitches Magazine No. of Topping Pieces No 1 water-soluble topping Optional Optional Optional No Comments Tightly woven or heavy fabrics may need a lighter backing or none at all. A higher stitch density or more understitches, as well as the topping, may be necessary to prevent stitches from sinking into the fabric. Reduce sewing speed. Tensions should be light. Use topping for designs with high detail or small lettering. For very fine fabrics, use a thinner thread and a smaller needle. Avoid extremely narrow column stitching on letters or details; instead increase column width or use a bean stitch. Gently remove (don't pull) backing and topping from garment. Stretch garment to wearing size in hoop so finished embroidery will not be distorted when garment is worn; embroidery will look puckered when garment is not being worn. Use topping with fine detail or small letters. Change needles more often than usual because the buckram backing dulls needles faster. A lightweight tearaway backing helps reduce thread breaks and regulates tensions. Use a topping on corduroy or foam cap fronts. Reduce sewing speed. Use the smallest needle possible for the weight of the fabric to avoid the formation of large holes that could cause the embroidery to tear out of the garment. Hoop marks can be a problem, so hoop the backing and adhere the garment to it with double-sided tape. 107